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Riding Helmet - Your Most Important Protection

A good riding helmet is essential for every rider. The helmet protects against head injuries in case of falls or accidents, reducing the risk of serious injury. You should always wear a riding helmet when handling horses, whether you are just in the stable or riding.

Measurement and Fit

\\n
• Measure your head: Measure the circumference of your head to find the right helmet size. The helmet should be placed on by pressing it back from the forehead and should sit about one centimeter above your eyebrows.
\\n
• Adjust the chin strap: The strap should sit under the earlobe and go down under the chin. The chin strap should be tight enough to allow for two fingers under the chin without being too loose.
\\n
• Check the fit: You should be able to shake your head from side to side without the helmet moving. A helmet that fits loosely does not provide enough protection.
\\n

Helmet Use

\\n
• Avoid wearing hats under the helmet: Do not wear a regular hat under the helmet, instead use special helmet liners or ear warmers designed to be worn with the riding helmet without compromising safety.
\\n
• New CE marking: Make sure the helmet is CE marked according to the latest standard, EN1384:2023, which was introduced in October 2023.
\\n
• Replace your old helmet: The materials in the helmet can break down over time, which affects its protective capacity. Therefore, it is recommended to replace the helmet every five years, even if it has not been involved in an accident.
\\n

If you have fallen and the helmet has received a hard impact or been dropped on the ground, it should be replaced immediately, even if no visible damage is seen. The structure inside the helmet may have been affected by the impact.

A helmet should also be replaced if you notice visible cracks, damage, or deformations, or if it has been exposed to extremely high or low temperatures.

Special Helmets for Eventing

\\nJockey-style helmets: In eventing, jockey-style helmets are recommended, which do not have a peak and are covered. This is to reduce the risk of the helmet getting caught and causing further injury during a fall.

Riding boots or riding shoes, what you choose depends a bit on your personal taste. Riding boots are available in various models and styles. When you begin riding and maybe don't want to spend too much money on equipment a pair of artificial leather riding boots can be a good idea. This is also true for children who are still growing a lot. Artificial leather riding boots are also more resistant to moisture, while leather riding boots last a long time on the condition that you are diligent in keeping them clean and oiled.

Different models of riding boots

Of course, the model you choose will depend on your taste and what you think is the most comfortable. It can also have an impact on your choice if you compete and are concentrating on a particular discipline. Dressage boots are usually stiffer and straighter, if they have zips they are usually obliquely to the front. Jumping and all-round boots are usually soft and more flexible, they may have laces in the middle of the front and a zip at the back.

When you choose boots, make sure you don't choose a pair that are too short, the leg \\\"settles\\\" after a while and it's not pleasant if the boot feels too short. If a high leg feels uncomfortable at the beginning you can put in a small wedge sole to prevent blisters at the back of the knee.

Riding shoes and gaiters/short chaps

Riding boots provide more support to the leg than riding shoes, but if you prefer to have a pair of riding shoes you can complement these with short chaps/gaiters to get something that appears similar to a pair of boots. The benefit of this combination is that it is usually significantly cheaper and it can be easier to find something that fits both the foot and the leg perfectly.

In winter, when you have slightly more robust and chunky shoes, you may need to change up to larger stirrups to prevent your shoes from getting stuck.

Stable shoes and stable boots

Bear in mind that both riding boots and riding shoes should be used when riding and not when working in the stable as soles, seams and zips are not designed for the wear and tear caused by, for example, manure, urine and wood shavings.
Sturdy shoes with a good sole are beneficial when tending to a horse and stable. Protective shoes with steel toe-caps reduce the risk of a trampling injury. You can even get shoes with soles that protect you should you step on, for example, a nail and soles that protect against urine and chemicals.

Riding boots and riding shoes

Riding boots or riding shoes, what you choose depends a bit on your personal taste. Riding boots are available in various models and styles. When you begin riding and maybe don't want to spend too much money on equipment a pair of artificial leather riding boots can be a good idea. This is also true for children who are still growing a lot. Artificial leather riding boots are also more resistant to moisture, while leather riding boots last a long time on the condition that you are diligent in keeping them clean and oiled.

Different models of riding boots

Of course, the model you choose will depend on your taste and what you think is the most comfortable. It can also have an impact on your choice if you compete and are concentrating on a particular discipline. Dressage boots are usually stiffer and straighter, if they have zips they are usually obliquely to the front. Jumping and all-round boots are usually soft and more flexible, they may have laces in the middle of the front and a zip at the back.

When you choose boots, make sure you don't choose a pair that are too short, the leg \\\"settles\\\" after a while and it's not pleasant if the boot feels too short. If a high leg feels uncomfortable at the beginning you can put in a small wedge sole to prevent blisters at the back of the knee.

Riding shoes and gaiters/short chaps

Riding boots provide more support to the leg than riding shoes, but if you prefer to have a pair of riding shoes you can complement these with short chaps/gaiters to get something that appears similar to a pair of boots. The benefit of this combination is that it is usually significantly cheaper and it can be easier to find something that fits both the foot and the leg perfectly.

In winter, when you have slightly more robust and chunky shoes, you may need to change up to larger stirrups to prevent your shoes from getting stuck.

Stable shoes and stable boots

Bear in mind that both riding boots and riding shoes should be used when riding and not when working in the stable as soles, seams and zips are not designed for the wear and tear caused by, for example, manure, urine and wood shavings.
\\nSturdy shoes with a good sole are beneficial when tending to a horse and stable. Protective shoes with steel toe-caps reduce the risk of a trampling injury. You can even get shoes with soles that protect you should you step on, for example, a nail and soles that protect against urine and chemicals.

You can ensure a really enjoyable riding trip or time in the stables, whatever the weather or season, by taking care in how you dress. Of course, we can't promise that your horse will be in a good mood, but with the right riding clothes at least you won't be freezing or sweaty. We asked our designer Ann-Therese Helgesson for tips on how to dress - whatever the weather.

Spring/summer

✓ Riding breeches reduce the risk of chafing. It's down to personal preference whether you have full or half-seat breeches or whether or not you have silicone padding. Invest in a pair of breeches made of technical material that are dirt-resistant, quick-drying, water-repellent and offer UV protection. If you go riding in a pair of leggings, they need to be comfortable and not have any irritating seams.

✓ T-shirt, piqué polo, light shirt, technical shirt or knitted top? This depends on where and how you are going to be riding. If you're out in the woods where there's a risk of cuts and scrapes from foliage, it may be wise, for example, to choose a long-sleeved top that offers the best protection.

✓ Sadly, summertime often brings rain. If you're just going from the stable to the riding hall, clearly a poncho will do, but if you're off out riding in the woods, the comfortable option is to wear a rain jacket.

✓ Thin summer gloves will both protect your hands and give you a better grip on the reins.

✓ A ventilated lightweight helmet will stop you getting too hot, even in sunny conditions.

✓ A belt bag will allow you to carry your phone even on hot days when you're riding in just a T-shirt and breeches. Practical and good.

✓ Finally, choose a pair of riding boots, jodhpurs or chaps that fit well.

Autumn/winter, indoors

To avoid being cold - or unnecessarily sweaty - the best solution is layering. You can always add or remove a layer during your session. Equestrianism is a physically demanding sport that benefits from the use of technical clothing tailored to the kind of riding you intend to do.

✓  Riding breeches reduce the risk of chafing. It's down to personal preference whether you have full or half-seat breeches or whether or not you have silicone padding. Invest in a winter model in a soft shell material. They are stretchy, with fleece on the reverse and a brushed inside to improve airflow. Wear thermals if you need that little bit of extra warmth.

✓ Many riders come to their lessons wearing a gilet, a microfleece jacket and a coat. Your gilet should have elasticated sides and be thin but still warm where it really makes a difference. A thin gilet also makes it easy for your instructor to see how you are sitting and moving in the saddle.

✓ If you ride a lot and want to improve the circulation in your calves so that they don't go numb and stiff, compression socks are what you need. They also reduce muscle soreness afterwards. But I'd also like to bang the drum for woolly socks. Wool is a fantastic material - all year round.

✓ Invest in a pair of ordinary riding gloves in a flexible synthetic material with a soft mesh upper, or a pair of leather gloves.

✓ You can wear a riding skirt on the way to training and during the warm-up. It will keep your thighs warm, a part of the body that often gets cold.

Autumn/winter, outdoors

✓ A good, durable set of thermals is a must. You should also invest in a fleece or a knitted sweater and a thick jacket. If, for example, you're going at walking pace for an hour, you can easily get cold unless you have a jacket to keep you warm. For full-on interval workouts or gallop sessions, a shell jacket works well even in the cold if you do a good job with your layering.

✓ With overalls, you automatically get warmth all over in one go. But be sure not to overdress! It's never cool to have to get sweaty and sticky.

✓ A buff is great for stopping the cold air getting into your jacket via your neck. You can also wear it over your head under your helmet so that the buff covers your cheeks. You can see your buff as a multi-purpose tool when it's windy.

✓ Thick summer gloves with padding on the top will both protect your hands from the cold and give you a good grip on the reins.

✓ Your feet are particularly vulnerable to the cold. Remember that you should always be able to wriggle your toes, so don't put five pairs of socks on and hope that that will solve the problem. Your toes need space. Instead, go riding wearing lots of layers, woolly socks and a woollen insole. Your thighs, too, are exposed in winter, so invest in a longer riding skirt or coat. Also invest in padded trousers and some Earbags to protect your ears. 

How to dress

You can ensure a really enjoyable riding trip or time in the stables, whatever the weather or season, by taking care in how you dress. Of course, we can't promise that your horse will be in a good mood, but with the right riding clothes at least you won't be freezing or sweaty. We asked our designer Ann-Therese Helgesson for tips on how to dress - whatever the weather.

Spring/summer

✓ Riding breeches reduce the risk of chafing. It's down to personal preference whether you have full or half-seat breeches or whether or not you have silicone padding. Invest in a pair of breeches made of technical material that are dirt-resistant, quick-drying, water-repellent and offer UV protection. If you go riding in a pair of leggings, they need to be comfortable and not have any irritating seams.

✓ T-shirt, piqué polo, light shirt, technical shirt or knitted top? This depends on where and how you are going to be riding. If you're out in the woods where there's a risk of cuts and scrapes from foliage, it may be wise, for example, to choose a long-sleeved top that offers the best protection.

✓ Sadly, summertime often brings rain. If you're just going from the stable to the riding hall, clearly a poncho will do, but if you're off out riding in the woods, the comfortable option is to wear a rain jacket.

✓ Thin summer gloves will both protect your hands and give you a better grip on the reins.

✓ A ventilated lightweight helmet will stop you getting too hot, even in sunny conditions.

✓ A belt bag will allow you to carry your phone even on hot days when you're riding in just a T-shirt and breeches. Practical and good.

✓ Finally, choose a pair of riding boots, jodhpurs or chaps that fit well.

Autumn/winter, indoors

To avoid being cold - or unnecessarily sweaty - the best solution is layering. You can always add or remove a layer during your session. Equestrianism is a physically demanding sport that benefits from the use of technical clothing tailored to the kind of riding you intend to do.

✓  Riding breeches reduce the risk of chafing. It's down to personal preference whether you have full or half-seat breeches or whether or not you have silicone padding. Invest in a winter model in a soft shell material. They are stretchy, with fleece on the reverse and a brushed inside to improve airflow. Wear thermals if you need that little bit of extra warmth.

✓ Many riders come to their lessons wearing a gilet, a microfleece jacket and a coat. Your gilet should have elasticated sides and be thin but still warm where it really makes a difference. A thin gilet also makes it easy for your instructor to see how you are sitting and moving in the saddle.

✓ If you ride a lot and want to improve the circulation in your calves so that they don't go numb and stiff, compression socks are what you need. They also reduce muscle soreness afterwards. But I'd also like to bang the drum for woolly socks. Wool is a fantastic material - all year round.

✓ Invest in a pair of ordinary riding gloves in a flexible synthetic material with a soft mesh upper, or a pair of leather gloves.

✓ You can wear a riding skirt on the way to training and during the warm-up. It will keep your thighs warm, a part of the body that often gets cold.

Autumn/winter, outdoors

✓ A good, durable set of thermals is a must. You should also invest in a fleece or a knitted sweater and a thick jacket. If, for example, you're going at walking pace for an hour, you can easily get cold unless you have a jacket to keep you warm. For full-on interval workouts or gallop sessions, a shell jacket works well even in the cold if you do a good job with your layering.

✓ With overalls, you automatically get warmth all over in one go. But be sure not to overdress! It's never cool to have to get sweaty and sticky.

✓ A buff is great for stopping the cold air getting into your jacket via your neck. You can also wear it over your head under your helmet so that the buff covers your cheeks. You can see your buff as a multi-purpose tool when it's windy.

✓ Thick summer gloves with padding on the top will both protect your hands from the cold and give you a good grip on the reins.

✓ Your feet are particularly vulnerable to the cold. Remember that you should always be able to wriggle your toes, so don't put five pairs of socks on and hope that that will solve the problem. Your toes need space. Instead, go riding wearing lots of layers, woolly socks and a woollen insole. Your thighs, too, are exposed in winter, so invest in a longer riding skirt or coat. Also invest in padded trousers and some Earbags to protect your ears.

All riding breeches has it’s own combination of fit, material and function. The fit is the most important thing, it should be comfortable. That’s why it’s so important that you try on a number of different breeches so you will find the perfect match for your shape. Because even though all riding breeches are stretchy, the fit varies. A great tip along the way are that you should be able to move freely, bend your knees and squat.

Quality and features

Our riding breeches are made in different material combinations/functional materials so that you can customize your choice according to season and temperature. Remember that you should like the material, that it feels nice on your body. Then find out the different properties of the material combo. If the pants are in four-way stretch, they have an extra good fit and give you maximum freedom of movement. If you choose a functional material, it is usually breathable, but can also be dirt-repellent, quick-drying and UV-proof.

Some models have some special features. Our riding breeches in stretchy soft shell are for example warm lined with fleece on the inside which makes it a popular winter breech. There are also high-tech riding pants with Icefil® that keep you cool and carry moisture away from the body, Core Control Technology ™, which provides extra support to the core muscles (abdomen and back) and Calf Fit System ™ which provides calf and ankle support plus relieves pressure points and friction in the boots.

Functions

Choose features based on what you need in your riding. Silicone / PU are materials that in different ways give good grip depending on the designs they have and where these designs are placed. If the pants are fully cushioned, it can be with Daewoo or silicone / PU. Generally, a full-length trouser gives better grip in the saddle, but most of it is about your own experience and what improves your riding. The half-padded breeches have better grip at the knees while the knee-reinforced has double fabric at the knees and is an option for those who do not want any grip function at all. 

Details

The waist of the riding breeches is usually higher at the back to avoid uncomfortable slips and that it becomes too \\\"choppy\\\" when sitting in the saddle. The seams are strategically positioned so that you do not get scuffs and the leg closures are either in elastic material or have Velcro fasteners, which makes it easy and comfortable to hold the pants in place. Leg length you choose according to what you enjoy with as we also have pants with slightly longer legs. Practical pockets with or without zipper and stylish decor are other details that lift the look.

Riding leggings

Comfortable and flexible variant of riding breeches with elastic waistband and different grips.

Full chaps

More and more riders are realizing how easy it is to become ready for the horseback without having to change clothes. The opportunities for full chaps vary from being a coverall that keeps you clean when mucking and brushing in the stable, dry when riding out in the rain or snow and of course keeping you look good. You don't have to jump off to take them off. Sit comfortably in the saddle and just open the zippers along the legs and the adjustable belt at the waist.

The classic materials are suede and nipple, but today there are also models in warm stretchy neoprene with silicone-cushioned knees for good grip and weather-resistant waterproof nylon that are both easy to carry and bring with you. If you find it difficult to find riding boots that fit, short chaps work well with riding shoes.

Thermo pants

This is the pants that makes it nice to ride out in the cold. Pull them on the riding breeches or over a pair of nice thermo leggings and enjoy the moment with the horse. Our thermo pants are fully cushioned to give the best grip in the saddle. It is lined, waterproof and breathable. The waist is elastic and the seams are taped. The zippers on the legs facilitate when you put them on and off. If you want a lighter version when you’re hanging on the stand or in the stable, try the cover up skirt. Stylish, practical and comfortable warming. Even when sitting on horseback, of course.

Riding breeches alpha and omega

All riding breeches has it’s own combination of fit, material and function. The fit is the most important thing, it should be comfortable. That’s why it’s so important that you try on a number of different breeches so you will find the perfect match for your shape. Because even though all riding breeches are stretchy, the fit varies. A great tip along the way are that you should be able to move freely, bend your knees and squat.

Quality and features

Our riding breeches are made in different material combinations/functional materials so that you can customize your choice according to season and temperature. Remember that you should like the material, that it feels nice on your body. Then find out the different properties of the material combo. If the pants are in four-way stretch, they have an extra good fit and give you maximum freedom of movement. If you choose a functional material, it is usually breathable, but can also be dirt-repellent, quick-drying and UV-proof.

Some models have some special features. Our riding breeches in stretchy soft shell are for example warm lined with fleece on the inside which makes it a popular winter breech. There are also high-tech riding pants with Icefil® that keep you cool and carry moisture away from the body, Core Control Technology ™, which provides extra support to the core muscles (abdomen and back) and Calf Fit System ™ which provides calf and ankle support plus relieves pressure points and friction in the boots.

Functions

Choose features based on what you need in your riding. Silicone / PU are materials that in different ways give good grip depending on the designs they have and where these designs are placed. If the pants are fully cushioned, it can be with Daewoo or silicone / PU. Generally, a full-length trouser gives better grip in the saddle, but most of it is about your own experience and what improves your riding. The half-padded breeches have better grip at the knees while the knee-reinforced has double fabric at the knees and is an option for those who do not want any grip function at all.

Details

The waist of the riding breeches is usually higher at the back to avoid uncomfortable slips and that it becomes too \\\"choppy\\\" when sitting in the saddle. The seams are strategically positioned so that you do not get scuffs and the leg closures are either in elastic material or have Velcro fasteners, which makes it easy and comfortable to hold the pants in place. Leg length you choose according to what you enjoy with as we also have pants with slightly longer legs. Practical pockets with or without zipper and stylish decor are other details that lift the look.

Riding leggings

Comfortable and flexible variant of riding breeches with elastic waistband and different grips.

Full chaps

More and more riders are realizing how easy it is to become ready for the horseback without having to change clothes. The opportunities for full chaps vary from being a coverall that keeps you clean when mucking and brushing in the stable, dry when riding out in the rain or snow and of course keeping you look good. You don't have to jump off to take them off. Sit comfortably in the saddle and just open the zippers along the legs and the adjustable belt at the waist.

The classic materials are suede and nipple, but today there are also models in warm stretchy neoprene with silicone-cushioned knees for good grip and weather-resistant waterproof nylon that are both easy to carry and bring with you. If you find it difficult to find riding boots that fit, short chaps work well with riding shoes.

Thermo pants

This is the pants that makes it nice to ride out in the cold. Pull them on the riding breeches or over a pair of nice thermo leggings and enjoy the moment with the horse. Our thermo pants are fully cushioned to give the best grip in the saddle. It is lined, waterproof and breathable. The waist is elastic and the seams are taped. The zippers on the legs facilitate when you put them on and off. If you want a lighter version when you’re hanging on the stand or in the stable, try the cover up skirt. Stylish, practical and comfortable warming. Even when sitting on horseback, of course.

Hööks always strives to manufacture premium quality products, and places high demands on quality. It is important to care for the products correctly to maximise their lifespan. Avoid washing textile products more often than necessary, as this can shorten their lifespan and also causes negative environmental impact.

Technical clothing that is water-repellent / breathable

Technical clothing should not be washed more often than necessary. However, it is worth bearing in mind that if technical materials get too dirty, they become less breathable and also less water-repellent. When washing the garments, follow their specific washing instructions carefully. Close Velcro fastenings, zips, buttons, etc. before washing to reduce wear. Do not use fabric conditioner on technical garments, as this reduces the garment's function and harms the environment.

All technical garments gradually lose their water-repellent properties with both normal use and washing. If the water on the surface stops forming drops, you can reactivate the waterproofing by applying low heat to the garment, for instance using an iron or a tumble drier.

If this treatment stops having an effect, we recommend that you restore the waterproofing. Use a waterproofing treatment that is free from fluorocarbons and follow the garment's washing instructions when applying the treatment.

Synthetic material

Most synthetic materials are relatively easy to care for and can be washed in an ordinary washing machine. Avoid washing the garments more often than necessary, to spare both the garment and the environment. Follow the washing instructions carefully and don't use fabric conditioner. Avoid tumble drying the garment if possible, but follow the recommendations in the washing instructions.

Cotton

When washing cotton products, always follow the garment's washing instructions and avoid using fabric conditioner. Not tumble drying your garments prolongs their lifespan and also saves energy.

Wool

Wool fibres are naturally dirt-repellent and antibacterial, and for this reason it's often enough to air your woollen garments to freshen them up. When washing wool, always follow the garment's washing instructions carefully since all woollen garments are not machine-washable. Avoid washing the garment at too high a temperature. If the garment is machine washable, use your washing machine's wool cycle. If woollen items are washed on a cycle that is too hard or vigorous, the wool can get matted and the garment can shrink. Don't use fabric conditioner when washing woollen garments, as it can damage the wool fibres.

Waterproofing

Hööks only uses water-repellent treatments that are free from fluorocarbons (PFCs). This is because PFCs are harmful both to people and the environment. The water-repellent properties gradually wear off with both washing and use. When this happens, we recommend that you restore the waterproofing. Use a waterproofing treatment that is free from fluorocarbons (PFC free), and follow the garment's washing instructions when applying the treatment.

Care instructions – clothing

Hööks always strives to manufacture premium quality products, and places high demands on quality. It is important to care for the products correctly to maximise their lifespan. Avoid washing textile products more often than necessary, as this can shorten their lifespan and also causes negative environmental impact.

Technical clothing that is water-repellent / breathable

Technical clothing should not be washed more often than necessary. However, it is worth bearing in mind that if technical materials get too dirty, they become less breathable and also less water-repellent. When washing the garments, follow their specific washing instructions carefully. Close Velcro fastenings, zips, buttons, etc. before washing to reduce wear. Do not use fabric conditioner on technical garments, as this reduces the garment's function and harms the environment.

All technical garments gradually lose their water-repellent properties with both normal use and washing. If the water on the surface stops forming drops, you can reactivate the waterproofing by applying low heat to the garment, for instance using an iron or a tumble drier.

If this treatment stops having an effect, we recommend that you restore the waterproofing. Use a waterproofing treatment that is free from fluorocarbons and follow the garment's washing instructions when applying the treatment.

Synthetic material

Most synthetic materials are relatively easy to care for and can be washed in an ordinary washing machine. Avoid washing the garments more often than necessary, to spare both the garment and the environment. Follow the washing instructions carefully and don't use fabric conditioner. Avoid tumble drying the garment if possible, but follow the recommendations in the washing instructions.

Cotton

When washing cotton products, always follow the garment's washing instructions and avoid using fabric conditioner. Not tumble drying your garments prolongs their lifespan and also saves energy.

Wool

Wool fibres are naturally dirt-repellent and antibacterial, and for this reason it's often enough to air your woollen garments to freshen them up. When washing wool, always follow the garment's washing instructions carefully since all woollen garments are not machine-washable. Avoid washing the garment at too high a temperature. If the garment is machine washable, use your washing machine's wool cycle. If woollen items are washed on a cycle that is too hard or vigorous, the wool can get matted and the garment can shrink. Don't use fabric conditioner when washing woollen garments, as it can damage the wool fibres.

Waterproofing

Hööks only uses water-repellent treatments that are free from fluorocarbons (PFCs). This is because PFCs are harmful both to people and the environment. The water-repellent properties gradually wear off with both washing and use. When this happens, we recommend that you restore the waterproofing. Use a waterproofing treatment that is free from fluorocarbons (PFC free), and follow the garment's washing instructions when applying the treatment.

Learn more about different materials and their functions, from riding equipment to clothing, to find what suits your needs and riding style.

Training tips for riders

Do you feel a little rusty, stiff or just want to feel better? Check out our tips on how to stay in good shape both on and off horseback.

Yoga strengthens your body awareness and is a type of training that all riders, beginners as well as professionals, should work more on. Because when you are really aware of what your body is doing, you can influence your riding in a controlled way. Then you give the signals you actually mean and in this way you make it easier for the horse and increase your team spirit.
Check out Yinyoga and yanyoga, examples of yoga that benefit you as a rider. Focus on the exercises that you need. Yinyoga is a kind of stretching that creates stillness and conscious presence where the positions are usually held for 3-7 minutes. Yanyoga is the opposite of yin yoga, a more dynamic, active type of yoga that builds strength, increases mobility and agility.

If you want better endurance, classic cardio training such as running, swimming and cycling are good options. During cardio training, you should reach a maximum heart rate of 60-70% and keep that heart rate for at least 30 minutes. You know you are at the right heart rate level when it feels a little strenuous to talk during exercise. Alternate with interval training and strength training. There are many good outdoor gyms where you can train your equestrian muscles. Here is an exercise that you can also do at home.

Balance

The balance is of course important for riders. Here's a simple tip on how to quickly put in a balancing act pretty much anywhere, anytime. But preferably every day. For best effect, do the exercise in the stocking or barefoot.
• Rest your right foot against the inside of the calf - place your palms facing each other in front of your chest - stretch your arms (still with your palms facing each other) upwards as far as you can - stay that way or spread your arms to a V - lower and relax your shoulders - raise look at the ceiling (or look straight ahead if it feels better) - stand still and count slowly to 20 (or as far as feels comfortable).Now repeat with left foot towards the inside of the calf etc. If you want to simplify, you can have the heel against the ankle and the toe in the ground. Do you want to complicate, close your eyes.

Hollow

• Hollow position is a full body exercise with a focus on the core muscles (back and abdomen). Lie on the ground / floor with your body outstretched - lift your shoulder blades and legs a little above the floor - keep your arms at your sides or let them rest on your body - your crotch and buttocks should remain against the floor. Hold this bowl-like position for about 15-20 seconds or longer. Relax and repeat as many times as you can.

Breathe

If you feel stressed when you get to the stable or nervous before the competition, try Nadi Shodhana, a breathing exercise that helps you relax and get better focus.
• Use your right thumb and middle finger: start by taking a couple of calm, fairly deep breaths - before exhaling at the second breath, close your right nostril with your thumb and exhale slowly through your left nostril - hold your thumb and then inhale slowly through your left nostril - before exhaling close the left nostril with your middle finger and exhale slowly through the right - then inhale slowly through your right nostril before closing it again and exhale slowly through the left etc.Continue to switch nostrils this way for five to ten minutes. Feel free to repeat several times a day if you have the opportunity.

Training tips for riders

Do you feel a little rusty, stiff or just want to feel better? Check out our tips on how to stay in good shape both on and off horseback.

Yoga strengthens your body awareness and is a type of training that all riders, beginners as well as professionals, should work more on. Because when you are really aware of what your body is doing, you can influence your riding in a controlled way. Then you give the signals you actually mean and in this way you make it easier for the horse and increase your team spirit.
\\nCheck out Yinyoga and yanyoga, examples of yoga that benefit you as a rider. Focus on the exercises that you need. Yinyoga is a kind of stretching that creates stillness and conscious presence where the positions are usually held for 3-7 minutes. Yanyoga is the opposite of yin yoga, a more dynamic, active type of yoga that builds strength, increases mobility and agility.
\\n
\\nIf you want better endurance, classic cardio training such as running, swimming and cycling are good options. During cardio training, you should reach a maximum heart rate of 60-70% and keep that heart rate for at least 30 minutes. You know you are at the right heart rate level when it feels a little strenuous to talk during exercise. Alternate with interval training and strength training. There are many good outdoor gyms where you can train your equestrian muscles. Here is an exercise that you can also do at home.

Balance

The balance is of course important for riders. Here's a simple tip on how to quickly put in a balancing act pretty much anywhere, anytime. But preferably every day. For best effect, do the exercise in the stocking or barefoot.• Rest your right foot against the inside of the calf - place your palms facing each other in front of your chest - stretch your arms (still with your palms facing each other) upwards as far as you can - stay that way or spread your arms to a V - lower and relax your shoulders - raise look at the ceiling (or look straight ahead if it feels better) - stand still and count slowly to 20 (or as far as feels comfortable).Now repeat with left foot towards the inside of the calf etc. If you want to simplify, you can have the heel against the ankle and the toe in the ground. Do you want to complicate, close your eyes.

Hollow

• Hollow position is a full body exercise with a focus on the core muscles (back and abdomen). Lie on the ground / floor with your body outstretched - lift your shoulder blades and legs a little above the floor - keep your arms at your sides or let them rest on your body - your crotch and buttocks should remain against the floor. Hold this bowl-like position for about 15-20 seconds or longer. Relax and repeat as many times as you can.

Breathe

If you feel stressed when you get to the stable or nervous before the competition, try Nadi Shodhana, a breathing exercise that helps you relax and get better focus.• Use your right thumb and middle finger: start by taking a couple of calm, fairly deep breaths - before exhaling at the second breath, close your right nostril with your thumb and exhale slowly through your left nostril - hold your thumb and then inhale slowly through your left nostril - before exhaling close the left nostril with your middle finger and exhale slowly through the right - then inhale slowly through your right nostril before closing it again and exhale slowly through the left etc.Continue to switch nostrils this way for five to ten minutes. Feel free to repeat several times a day if you have the opportunity.

Horses are large and sensitive animals. If you take care to look over and check your horse every day, you can take care of minor ailments yourself. They do not have to develop into larger problems that require veterinary care. These are a few relatively common ailments that you can normally treat yourself, however, if you have any doubts whatsoever, call your veterinarian.

Small wounds

Smaller wounds that are not deep and do not bleed excessively enough to need sutures can be treated at home. Clean out the wound with soap and water or saline. Make sure to keep the wound edges clean and possible cut away the hairs around the wound to make it easier to keep clean. Apply a thin layer of some form of wound ointment or spray-on wound treatment to shield the wound from bacteria. Some wounds may need bandaging, if the horse has a damaged a heel bulb for example, you may want to apply a hoof bandage. This prevents dirt from getting into the wound.

Mud fever

Mud fever is a skin infection in the pastern. The skin of the horse's pastern is thin and delicate, and wounds may occur when the horse is walking in muddy or damp paddocks. When these wounds get infected it is called mud fever. The most important way to prevent mud fever is to keep the horse's legs as clean and dry as you can. If the horse gets mud fever, it is important to treat it carefully so that it does not spread up the leg. If the infection spreads to the lymphatic vessels, the horse may get lymphangitis. Lymphangitis is when the lymphatic vessels are unable to transport fluids away from the tissues, which means they stay in the limb, causing it to swell up.

What you can do to treat mud fever:

\\r\\n
• Carefully wash the legs with natural or mild soap
\\r\\n
• Carefully dry off the legs with a towel
\\r\\n
• Apply a moisturiser to the pastern Salicylic acid in Vaseline is effective against mud fever.
\\r\\n
• Repeat the treatment every day four about a week. If there is no improvement, contact your veterinarian for advice and possible treatment.
\\r\\n

Horses that have had mud fever once will be more prone to get it again. It is therefore important to keep checking and keeping the pasterns clean.

Thrush

Thrush is a bacterial infection in the hoof. It normally occurs in the frog cleft, but may spread to other parts of the hoof as well. The hoof/frog turns soft and mushy and develops a bad smell. It is most often caused by poor hoof hygiene and the horse standing on a wet and dirty footing, but narrow hooves with deep frog clefts may also contribute.

What you can do to treat thrush:

\\r\\n
• Make sure you clean the hoof carefully every day and that the horse has a dry and clean bed to stand on.
\\r\\n
• Spray the hoof with diluted iodine solution, which is antiseptic.
\\r\\n
• Tar and copper sulphate are two excellent products that you can use for thrush, however, there are plenty of other effective products on the market.
\\r\\n

Choke

Choke is when the horse's oesophagus becomes obstructed. This may be caused by un-soaked beet pulp, large chunks of apple or just regular feed. The horse becomes very agitated, opens and closes its mouth, salivates heavily and you may see feed bits coming out the nostrils. Immediately remove all feed and carefully rub the left side of the jugular groove. Contact a veterinarian.

To avoid choke, you can start by feeding your horse forage feed before you give it concentrate feed. If your horse has a great appetite, you may put a number of large stones in the manger, to stop it from wolfing down its food. Soaked feed may also be a way to prevent choke.

Common ailments

Horses are large and sensitive animals. If you take care to look over and check your horse every day, you can take care of minor ailments yourself. They do not have to develop into larger problems that require veterinary care. These are a few relatively common ailments that you can normally treat yourself, however, if you have any doubts whatsoever, call your veterinarian.

Small wounds

Smaller wounds that are not deep and do not bleed excessively enough to need sutures can be treated at home. Clean out the wound with soap and water or saline. Make sure to keep the wound edges clean and possible cut away the hairs around the wound to make it easier to keep clean. Apply a thin layer of some form of wound ointment or spray-on wound treatment to shield the wound from bacteria. Some wounds may need bandaging, if the horse has a damaged a heel bulb for example, you may want to apply a hoof bandage. This prevents dirt from getting into the wound.

Mud fever

Mud fever is a skin infection in the pastern. The skin of the horse's pastern is thin and delicate, and wounds may occur when the horse is walking in muddy or damp paddocks. When these wounds get infected it is called mud fever. The most important way to prevent mud fever is to keep the horse's legs as clean and dry as you can. If the horse gets mud fever, it is important to treat it carefully so that it does not spread up the leg. If the infection spreads to the lymphatic vessels, the horse may get lymphangitis. Lymphangitis is when the lymphatic vessels are unable to transport fluids away from the tissues, which means they stay in the limb, causing it to swell up.

What you can do to treat mud fever:

\\n
• Carefully wash the legs with natural or mild soap
\\n
• Carefully dry off the legs with a towel
\\n
• Apply a moisturiser to the pastern Salicylic acid in Vaseline is effective against mud fever.
\\n
• Repeat the treatment every day four about a week. If there is no improvement, contact your veterinarian for advice and possible treatment.
\\n

Horses that have had mud fever once will be more prone to get it again. It is therefore important to keep checking and keeping the pasterns clean.

Thrush

Thrush is a bacterial infection in the hoof. It normally occurs in the frog cleft, but may spread to other parts of the hoof as well. The hoof/frog turns soft and mushy and develops a bad smell. It is most often caused by poor hoof hygiene and the horse standing on a wet and dirty footing, but narrow hooves with deep frog clefts may also contribute.

What you can do to treat thrush:

\\n
• Make sure you clean the hoof carefully every day and that the horse has a dry and clean bed to stand on.
\\n
• Spray the hoof with diluted iodine solution, which is antiseptic.
\\n
• Tar and copper sulphate are two excellent products that you can use for thrush, however, there are plenty of other effective products on the market.
\\n

Choke

Choke is when the horse's oesophagus becomes obstructed. This may be caused by un-soaked beet pulp, large chunks of apple or just regular feed. The horse becomes very agitated, opens and closes its mouth, salivates heavily and you may see feed bits coming out the nostrils. Immediately remove all feed and carefully rub the left side of the jugular groove. Contact a veterinarian.

To avoid choke, you can start by feeding your horse forage feed before you give it concentrate feed. If your horse has a great appetite, you may put a number of large stones in the manger, to stop it from wolfing down its food. Soaked feed may also be a way to prevent choke.

Just like us, horses fall ill sometimes, and some are more susceptible to illness than others. Learn to read your horse's signs, that way you will quickly spot when something is wrong and provide treatment.

Colic

Colic is a general term for abdominal pain. If your horse suffers from colic, you will often notice that it is acting anxious, scraping its front hooves, lifting its hind hooves and looking at its abdomen, and that it lies down to roll repeatedly. If you suspect colic, remove all feed and try to get your horse to move around. Lead or lunge it lightly, this may get the intestines going. If the pain does not go away, or if your horse is suffering, do not hesitate to call a veterinarian. Before you make the call, if it is not an emergency, it may be helpful to check the heart rate/pulse, mucous membranes, bowel sounds (a quiet abdomen is not a good sign), temperature and droppings. If your horse is too anxious to take the pulse and temperature, you should leave it. The risk of an accident is too great.

You may prevent colic by:

\\r\\n
• Free access to water
\\r\\n
• Regular exercise
\\r\\n
• Good feed hygiene
\\r\\n
• Well-soaked beet pulp and flax seed porridge may have a positive effect on the intestinal functions
\\r\\n
• Regular parasite checks
\\r\\n
• Regular dental checks
\\r\\n

Tying-up syndrome (or Exertional Rhabdomyolysis)

Tying-up presents as the horse becoming stiff and unwilling to move, sweats, tenderness and palpitations in the muscles of the hind legs, a red tint of the urine as well as an increased breathing rate and pulse. A horse that is not regularly exercised/trained, or which gets the same food rations during rest periods and training runs a greater risk of suffering tying-up. Symptoms present when the horse starts working again after a period of rest. As soon as you suspect tying-up syndrome you should let the horse rest, put a rug on it and keep the muscles warm, offer it water and if it lies down, let it be and make its bed as soft as possible. Contact your veterinarian for advice and possibly treatment.

You may prevent tying-up syndrome by:

\\r\\n
• Regular exercise
\\r\\n
• Reviewing and planning feed rations carefully and cutting them down during rest periods. 
\\r\\n
• Possibly give supplements of selenium, vitamin E and B. Be careful not to give too much selenium and vitamin E however.
\\r\\n

Founder (or Laminitis)

Founder causes inflammation in the hooves, which is very painful. The horse will be reluctant to move, and the hooves will feel warm, especially the front hooves. You can also feel a stronger pulse by the fetlock.

There are three known causes of founder:

\\r\\n
• Birth-related The afterbirth has not been eliminated but instead remains and causes a uterus infection that affects blood circulation in the hooves..
\\r\\n
• Strain-related A horse that has been lame for a longer period of time runs a risk of founder in the healthy, opposite leg because it has not been able to rest this leg.
\\r\\n
• Feed-related The most common form of founder is feed-related. It may be brought about by a too sudden change in feed; you should accustom your horse to a new feed over at least two weeks, which also applies to summer pasture. The horse may have been given feed that is too concentrated; it is important to regulate the rations during periods of rest or less intensive training.
\\r\\n

If you suspect that your horse suffers from founder, you should let it stand inside on a soft and dry floor, remove all concentrate feed, keep the legs cool and contact a veterinarian. It is of vital importance that your horse is seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

Lameness

A stumble can lead to a serious sprain, with symptoms like heat, swelling and lameness. Joints and tendons may be overexerted, which can cause lameness. Fractures are not very common in horses. The may be complex and therefore difficult to treat.

If your horse becomes suddenly lame, start by checking the hoof to make sure nothing is stuck in it. Feel along the legs for heat, swelling or tenderness.

If the horse is only slightly lame, let it rest and check for deterioration over a few days. If it gets worse, or if it is very lame and perhaps unwilling to stand on the leg, you need to contact a veterinarian.

Common illnesses

Just like us, horses fall ill sometimes, and some are more susceptible to illness than others. Learn to read your horse's signs, that way you will quickly spot when something is wrong and provide treatment.

Colic

Colic is a general term for abdominal pain. If your horse suffers from colic, you will often notice that it is acting anxious, scraping its front hooves, lifting its hind hooves and looking at its abdomen, and that it lies down to roll repeatedly. If you suspect colic, remove all feed and try to get your horse to move around. Lead or lunge it lightly, this may get the intestines going. If the pain does not go away, or if your horse is suffering, do not hesitate to call a veterinarian. Before you make the call, if it is not an emergency, it may be helpful to check the heart rate/pulse, mucous membranes, bowel sounds (a quiet abdomen is not a good sign), temperature and droppings. If your horse is too anxious to take the pulse and temperature, you should leave it. The risk of an accident is too great.

You may prevent colic by:

\\n
• Free access to water
\\n
• Regular exercise
\\n
• Good feed hygiene
\\n
• Well-soaked beet pulp and flax seed porridge may have a positive effect on the intestinal functions
\\n
• Regular parasite checks
\\n
• Regular dental checks
\\n

Tying-up syndrome (or Exertional Rhabdomyolysis)

Tying-up presents as the horse becoming stiff and unwilling to move, sweats, tenderness and palpitations in the muscles of the hind legs, a red tint of the urine as well as an increased breathing rate and pulse. A horse that is not regularly exercised/trained, or which gets the same food rations during rest periods and training runs a greater risk of suffering tying-up. Symptoms present when the horse starts working again after a period of rest. As soon as you suspect tying-up syndrome you should let the horse rest, put a rug on it and keep the muscles warm, offer it water and if it lies down, let it be and make its bed as soft as possible. Contact your veterinarian for advice and possibly treatment.

You may prevent tying-up syndrome by:

\\n
• Regular exercise
\\n
• Reviewing and planning feed rations carefully and cutting them down during rest periods.
\\n
• Possibly give supplements of selenium, vitamin E and B. Be careful not to give too much selenium and vitamin E however.
\\n

Founder (or Laminitis)

Founder causes inflammation in the hooves, which is very painful. The horse will be reluctant to move, and the hooves will feel warm, especially the front hooves. You can also feel a stronger pulse by the fetlock.

There are three known causes of founder:

\\n
• Birth-related The afterbirth has not been eliminated but instead remains and causes a uterus infection that affects blood circulation in the hooves..
\\n
• Strain-related A horse that has been lame for a longer period of time runs a risk of founder in the healthy, opposite leg because it has not been able to rest this leg.
\\n
• Feed-related The most common form of founder is feed-related. It may be brought about by a too sudden change in feed; you should accustom your horse to a new feed over at least two weeks, which also applies to summer pasture. The horse may have been given feed that is too concentrated; it is important to regulate the rations during periods of rest or less intensive training.
\\n

If you suspect that your horse suffers from founder, you should let it stand inside on a soft and dry floor, remove all concentrate feed, keep the legs cool and contact a veterinarian. It is of vital importance that your horse is seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

Lameness

A stumble can lead to a serious sprain, with symptoms like heat, swelling and lameness. Joints and tendons may be overexerted, which can cause lameness. Fractures are not very common in horses. The may be complex and therefore difficult to treat.

If your horse becomes suddenly lame, start by checking the hoof to make sure nothing is stuck in it. Feel along the legs for heat, swelling or tenderness.

If the horse is only slightly lame, let it rest and check for deterioration over a few days. If it gets worse, or if it is very lame and perhaps unwilling to stand on the leg, you need to contact a veterinarian.

The foaling season is now in full swing all over the country. If you are expecting a foal or are about to receive a foal in your stable, it is a good idea to keep an eye out for the common diseases which can affect them and for the symptoms which you should be alert to.

Every year thousands of foals are born in Sweden and, nowadays, there are many horse owners whose eyes are glued to their surveillance camera in anticipation of the patter of foals' hooves in their stable. Both gestation and foaling go well most of the time and the foal born is a healthy, lively youngster. But not all the time – some of the most common ailments which can affect foals are septicaemia, constipation and angular limb deformities.

\\\"Most types of diseases can appear already during the foal stage. We see three diagnoses that have a greater impact with recurring cases every year,\\\" says Karl-Henrik Heimdahl, horse vet at Agria Djurförsäkring.

Septicaemia

Septicaemia is a bacterial infection which affects foals during their first weeks of life, when the foal's own antibodies do not provide full protection. The infection starts somewhere in the body as a joint infection, meningitis, pneumonia or diarrhoea and, in the worst case scenario, can develop into general blood poisoning, known as foal sepsis. The bacteria come through inhaled air, the mouth or via an infection of the navel. Septicaemia often has a rapid progression.

Symptoms

\\r\\n
• Reduced appetite.
\\r\\n
• Severe general impact and fatigue.
\\r\\n
• Some parts of the body, including the ears and legs, become cold due to impaired blood circulation in the body.
\\r\\n
• In the case of a joint infection, lameness can be observed, along with swelling of the infected joint.
\\r\\n

Treatment

It is vital to initiate treatment quickly. Intensive medical care is often required, such as antibiotic treatment, plasma droplets with antibodies, but also surgical treatment may be necessary.

Meconium constipation

The foal should pass its meconium within 12 hours of birth - otherwise, this will lead to constipation and the foal will get colic. Meconium is dark in colour and often comes out as small hard stools.

Symptoms

\\r\\n
• Colic.
\\r\\n
• The foal scrapes its hooves and looks towards its abdomen.
\\r\\n
• The foal strains and tries to defecate.
\\r\\n
• If the symptoms become more severe, the foal may lie down on its back and try to roll.
\\r\\n

Treatment

Always contact your vet for advice, but if you notice the problem early, it can often be resolved by administering Microlax or a similar product.

Angular limb deformities

This often affects premature foals, foals which are not growing normally or which were in the wrong position in the womb. Foals can have different types of angular limb deformities.

Symptoms

\\r\\n
• Abnormal leg position, caused either by the foal having dropped fetlocks or very upright pasterns. In severe cases, the foal may knuckle over at the fetlock or buckle over at the knee.
\\r\\n
• The line from the knee to the fetlock or from the stifle to the fetlock is not straight.
\\r\\n
• Severe toe-out or toe-in stance.
\\r\\n

Treatment

In mild cases, the condition can resolve itself spontaneously. If treatment is required, it is important to carry it out promptly before the growth plates close. Consult a vet and expert farrier.

The most common diseases affecting foals

The foaling season is now in full swing all over the country. If you are expecting a foal or are about to receive a foal in your stable, it is a good idea to keep an eye out for the common diseases which can affect them and for the symptoms which you should be alert to.

Every year thousands of foals are born in Sweden and, nowadays, there are many horse owners whose eyes are glued to their surveillance camera in anticipation of the patter of foals' hooves in their stable. Both gestation and foaling go well most of the time and the foal born is a healthy, lively youngster. But not all the time – some of the most common ailments which can affect foals are septicaemia, constipation and angular limb deformities.

\\\"Most types of diseases can appear already during the foal stage. We see three diagnoses that have a greater impact with recurring cases every year,\\\" says Karl-Henrik Heimdahl, horse vet at Agria Djurförsäkring.

Septicaemia

Septicaemia is a bacterial infection which affects foals during their first weeks of life, when the foal's own antibodies do not provide full protection. The infection starts somewhere in the body as a joint infection, meningitis, pneumonia or diarrhoea and, in the worst case scenario, can develop into general blood poisoning, known as foal sepsis. The bacteria come through inhaled air, the mouth or via an infection of the navel. Septicaemia often has a rapid progression.

Symptoms

\\n
• Reduced appetite.
\\n
• Severe general impact and fatigue.
\\n
• Some parts of the body, including the ears and legs, become cold due to impaired blood circulation in the body.
\\n
• In the case of a joint infection, lameness can be observed, along with swelling of the infected joint.
\\n

Treatment

It is vital to initiate treatment quickly. Intensive medical care is often required, such as antibiotic treatment, plasma droplets with antibodies, but also surgical treatment may be necessary.

Meconium constipation

The foal should pass its meconium within 12 hours of birth - otherwise, this will lead to constipation and the foal will get colic. Meconium is dark in colour and often comes out as small hard stools.

Symptoms

\\n
• Colic.
\\n
• The foal scrapes its hooves and looks towards its abdomen.
\\n
• The foal strains and tries to defecate.
\\n
• If the symptoms become more severe, the foal may lie down on its back and try to roll.
\\n

Treatment

Always contact your vet for advice, but if you notice the problem early, it can often be resolved by administering Microlax or a similar product.

Angular limb deformities

This often affects premature foals, foals which are not growing normally or which were in the wrong position in the womb. Foals can have different types of angular limb deformities.

Symptoms

\\n
• Abnormal leg position, caused either by the foal having dropped fetlocks or very upright pasterns. In severe cases, the foal may knuckle over at the fetlock or buckle over at the knee.
\\n
• The line from the knee to the fetlock or from the stifle to the fetlock is not straight.
\\n
• Severe toe-out or toe-in stance.
\\n

Treatment

In mild cases, the condition can resolve itself spontaneously. If treatment is required, it is important to carry it out promptly before the growth plates close. Consult a vet and expert farrier.

The horse is a herd and prey animal, meaning its herd mentality is very important, and this is something we can use to our advantage by becoming part of the herd, i.e., becoming its leader.

The fact that the horse is a prey animal means that it would rather flee when it is frightened. The flight instinct of the horse is very strong, and you need to be aware of this in order to handle the horse as safely as possible.

Being a leader does not mean that you have to be tough and severe, but that you should be clear, determined and consistent in order to earn the horse's trust. If the horse sees you as a calm and secure leader, who signals that everything is OK, you can get the horse to calmly inspect and accept things that frightened it at first. Never punish a frightened horse, this only reinforces the unpleasant experience and creates a bigger problem than you were perhaps dealing begin with.

The horse has extremely acute senses.

Sight

Since the horse's eyes are positioned on either side of its head, it has a very wide field of vision, however, its eyes are not very sharp.  This makes it easy for the horse to discover danger, both from afar and up close, in different directions. This can be compared to, say, a lion, which is a predator: its eyes are placed in the middle of the face and they have very sharp eyes, which enables them to focus on its prey and take it down.

Smell

Horses have a very well-developed sense of smell. We can see this, for example, in how a mare can recognise her foal based on its scent, or in how a horse reacts to a new ingredient in its feed before it has even tasted it. The sense of smell is also a way for horses to communicate, and they often have a quick nose-to-nose when meeting each other. If you meet a new horse, it is not unusual that it will sniff you for a good while to find out who you are. Many times, their sense of smell will alert the horse to danger and predators in the wild, which allows them to get to safety and survive. In windy conditions, the horse will have more trouble distinguishing different scents, and this may cause it to be more anxious and prone to flight as its instincts are telling it that they will not be able to smell danger on time. 

Taste

Taste is intimately related to smell. If you want to introduce your horse to something new, it may be a good idea to start by the new flavour. This may come in handy  if you have a horse that does not want to drink at competitions because the water tastes different. In that case you could get your horse used to you putting apple-cider vinegar in the water, which makes it taste more similar at home and away.

Hearing

The horse has an acute sense of hearing and it can perceive both higher and lower pitches than us humans. It can move its ears independently, allowing it to catch and localise sounds coming from different directions. The ears are also used to communicate if the horse is curious, frightened or angry.

Touch

The horse is the most sensitive around the head, and it uses the tactile hairs around the muzzle and eyes to compensate for its limited forward vision. The tactile hairs on the muzzle/lips also allow the horse to distinguish between food and other things. You must never remove these hairs.

You have probably figured out that horses have sensitive skin, seeing for example how they react to a fly landing on them. This is something that you should remember when handling the horse, sometimes we may be using excessive force when a simple push would suffice.

Function of the horse explained

The horse is a herd and prey animal, meaning its herd mentality is very important, and this is something we can use to our advantage by becoming part of the herd, i.e., becoming its leader.

The fact that the horse is a prey animal means that it would rather flee when it is frightened. The flight instinct of the horse is very strong, and you need to be aware of this in order to handle the horse as safely as possible.

Being a leader does not mean that you have to be tough and severe, but that you should be clear, determined and consistent in order to earn the horse's trust. If the horse sees you as a calm and secure leader, who signals that everything is OK, you can get the horse to calmly inspect and accept things that frightened it at first. Never punish a frightened horse, this only reinforces the unpleasant experience and creates a bigger problem than you were perhaps dealing begin with.

The horse has extremely acute senses

Sight

Since the horse's eyes are positioned on either side of its head, it has a very wide field of vision, however, its eyes are not very sharp.  This makes it easy for the horse to discover danger, both from afar and up close, in different directions. This can be compared to, say, a lion, which is a predator: its eyes are placed in the middle of the face and they have very sharp eyes, which enables them to focus on its prey and take it down.

Smell

Horses have a very well-developed sense of smell. We can see this, for example, in how a mare can recognise her foal based on its scent, or in how a horse reacts to a new ingredient in its feed before it has even tasted it. The sense of smell is also a way for horses to communicate, and they often have a quick nose-to-nose when meeting each other. If you meet a new horse, it is not unusual that it will sniff you for a good while to find out who you are. Many times, their sense of smell will alert the horse to danger and predators in the wild, which allows them to get to safety and survive. In windy conditions, the horse will have more trouble distinguishing different scents, and this may cause it to be more anxious and prone to flight as its instincts are telling it that they will not be able to smell danger on time.

Taste

Taste is intimately related to smell. If you want to introduce your horse to something new, it may be a good idea to start by the new flavour. This may come in handy  if you have a horse that does not want to drink at competitions because the water tastes different. In that case you could get your horse used to you putting apple-cider vinegar in the water, which makes it taste more similar at home and away.

Hearing

The horse has an acute sense of hearing and it can perceive both higher and lower pitches than us humans. It can move its ears independently, allowing it to catch and localise sounds coming from different directions. The ears are also used to communicate if the horse is curious, frightened or angry.

Touch

The horse is the most sensitive around the head, and it uses the tactile hairs around the muzzle and eyes to compensate for its limited forward vision. The tactile hairs on the muzzle/lips also allow the horse to distinguish between food and other things. You must never remove these hairs.

You have probably figured out that horses have sensitive skin, seeing for example how they react to a fly landing on them. This is something that you should remember when handling the horse, sometimes we may be using excessive force when a simple push would suffice.

Good and healthy horsekeeping is based on your knowledge of what is best for your horse. This is especially true when it comes to feeding, exercise and daily care.

If you keep your horse in stables, they must meet the requirements and recommendations set by the Swedish Board of Agriculture, including certain measurements for boxes and stalls, headroom etc., which are obligatory. The stable environment must be sound; the horse must not be exposed to drafts, dampness, dust or noise. You must ensure that the horse has a dry and comfortable bed to stand/lie in. If your house is in loose housing, it must have some form of protection that it can step into to get away from the elements. If the horse is also outside during winter, you must provide a dry and clean bed.

The horse must have a good and balanced diet, and unless it has free access to food, it must be feed at least three, and preferably more, times a day. The horse must have free access to water.

If the horse is kept in stables, it should be  released into a paddock every day. It should also be given a chance to go outside or have contact with other horses. The paddock should ideally contain something for the horse to occupy itself with, such as a ball or a few birch twigs, in case your horse gets bored. The fences must be set up so that the horse cannot injure itself on them; any electrical wires must be well-stretched, and barbed wire must not be used.

Horses need to move around, and it is important that you give them plenty of varied exercise to give them a chance to develop their muscles, strength and stamina as well as to release energy.

The horse must have daily supervision, even when it is on summer pasture. You must ensure that the horse is healthy and well. If you set up a good routine when it comes to all the work relating to the horse, you will get a happy and harmonious horse – and an amazing relationship!

Spara

Healthy horsekeeping

Good and healthy horsekeeping is based on your knowledge of what is best for your horse. This is especially true when it comes to feeding, exercise and daily care.

If you keep your horse in stables, they must meet the requirements and recommendations set by the Swedish Board of Agriculture, including certain measurements for boxes and stalls, headroom etc., which are obligatory. The stable environment must be sound; the horse must not be exposed to drafts, dampness, dust or noise. You must ensure that the horse has a dry and comfortable bed to stand/lie in. If your house is in loose housing, it must have some form of protection that it can step into to get away from the elements. If the horse is also outside during winter, you must provide a dry and clean bed.

The horse must have a good and balanced diet, and unless it has free access to food, it must be feed at least three, and preferably more, times a day. The horse must have free access to water.

If the horse is kept in stables, it should be  released into a paddock every day. It should also be given a chance to go outside or have contact with other horses. The paddock should ideally contain something for the horse to occupy itself with, such as a ball or a few birch twigs, in case your horse gets bored. The fences must be set up so that the horse cannot injure itself on them; any electrical wires must be well-stretched, and barbed wire must not be used.

Horses need to move around, and it is important that you give them plenty of varied exercise to give them a chance to develop their muscles, strength and stamina as well as to release energy.

The horse must have daily supervision, even when it is on summer pasture. You must ensure that the horse is healthy and well. If you set up a good routine when it comes to all the work relating to the horse, you will get a happy and harmonious horse – and an amazing relationship!

The more time you spend with your horse, the quicker you will be to discover if something is wrong.
Signs that your horse is not well could be that it does not finish its food, that it does not drink enough, that it appears anxious and rolls around on the floor, or that it looks generally lethargic and unkempt.

There are a few good guidelines to follow if you suspect that your horse is unwell. To know what is normal for your horse, you must learn what it is like when it is healthy.

Temperature

The normal body temperature of a horse should be between 37.0 and 38.2 degrees (C). To find out what is the normal for your horse, you should take its temperature a few days in a row, preferably at the same time of day, for example in the morning.

Pulse

The horse will normally have a pulse between 28-40 beats per minute. The easiest way to check the pulse is through the blood vessel that runs along the bottom of the mandible or down by the fetlock

Breathing

The horse will normally take between 8-16 breaths per minute.

Mucous membranes

The horse's mucous membranes should be light pink; lift its upper lip to check.

Dehydration

If you pinch the skin of the horse's neck and pull outwards, it should go back down in a few seconds when you let go. If it takes longer, it may be an indication that your horse is dehydrated.

Bowel sounds

Place your ear against the abdomen, in the back towards the flank, and normally you should hear the intestines (gurgling sound), more clearly and louder on the left side.

Droppings

Has the horse urinated and defecated, and if so, does it look normal or are the droppings unusually loose, for example?

If your horse has any values outside of its normal range, you should let it rest. If you are unsure, contact your veterinarian to consult with them about possible treatment.

This should be in your stable first-aid kit

\\r\\n
• Thermometer
\\r\\n
• Antiseptic, such as iodine-based solution
\\r\\n
• Saline solution
\\r\\n
• Cotton
\\r\\n
• Dressings and sterile compresses
\\r\\n
• Gauze and elastic bandages
\\r\\n
• Self-adhesive bandages, flexible bandages
\\r\\n
• Scissors and tweezers
\\r\\n
• Mild soap
\\r\\n
• Moisturizing ointment, such as Helosan or Idomin
\\r\\n
• Oral syringe, may be used to clean wounds
\\r\\n
• Disposable gloves
\\r\\n
• Twitch
\\r\\n
• Plasters – for you
\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Spara

General health

The more time you spend with your horse, the quicker you will be to discover if something is wrong.
\\nSigns that your horse is not well could be that it does not finish its food, that it does not drink enough, that it appears anxious and rolls around on the floor, or that it looks generally lethargic and unkempt.

There are a few good guidelines to follow if you suspect that your horse is unwell. To know what is normal for your horse, you must learn what it is like when it is healthy.

Temperature

The normal body temperature of a horse should be between 37.0 and 38.2 degrees (C). To find out what is the normal for your horse, you should take its temperature a few days in a row, preferably at the same time of day, for example in the morning.

Pulse

The horse will normally have a pulse between 28-40 beats per minute. The easiest way to check the pulse is through the blood vessel that runs along the bottom of the mandible or down by the fetlock

Breathing

The horse will normally take between 8-16 breaths per minute.

Mucous membranes

The horse's mucous membranes should be light pink; lift its upper lip to check.

Dehydration

If you pinch the skin of the horse's neck and pull outwards, it should go back down in a few seconds when you let go. If it takes longer, it may be an indication that your horse is dehydrated.

Bowel sounds

Place your ear against the abdomen, in the back towards the flank, and normally you should hear the intestines (gurgling sound), more clearly and louder on the left side.

Droppings

Has the horse urinated and defecated, and if so, does it look normal or are the droppings unusually loose, for example?

If your horse has any values outside of its normal range, you should let it rest. If you are unsure, contact your veterinarian to consult with them about possible treatment.

This should be in your stable first-aid kit

\\n
• Thermometer
\\n
• Antiseptic, such as iodine-based solution
\\n
• Saline solution
\\n
• Cotton
\\n
• Dressings and sterile compresses
\\n
• Gauze and elastic bandages
\\n
• Self-adhesive bandages, flexible bandages
\\n
• Scissors and tweezers
\\n
• Mild soap
\\n
• Moisturizing ointment, such as Helosan or Idomin
\\n
• Oral syringe, may be used to clean wounds
\\n
• Disposable gloves
\\n
• Twitch
\\n
• Plasters – for you
\\n

The horse is a herbivore, and in the wild it will spend 16-18 hours per day grazing. Unless the horse spends all its time in pasture, we have to feed it.

There are different types of feed that can be used: forage feeds, concentrate feeds, wet feed, minerals and vitamins. You have to distribute feedings as evenly over the day as you can, and feed your horse on at least three, but preferably more, occasions per day.

Remember that if you are unsure, or need help understanding the contents analyses, it is always best to contact a feed expert.

Roughage

The roughage is the horse's most important feed, and the one you should give it the most of.

Hay, haylage and ensilage are common types of forage feeds that you can give your horse. The hay should be should be green with plenty of leaves, and free from dust and mould. When you calculate the amount to give your horse, estimate at least 1 kg of dry substance per 100 kg horse and day*. Since the hay contains a small amount of water, you normally count 1.2 kg of hay/100 kg horse and day. A simple way to calculate the body weight of your horse is to use a weight band to measure its girth. This will tell you the weight of the horse.

To make sure the horse gets all the nutrition it needs, it is important to have its forage feed analysed, and to calculate an appropriate ration accordingly. A good forage feed may enough on its own, unless you have a colt, a pregnant or lactating mare, or a horse in hard training. However, if your forage feed is somehow lacking in nutrients, you have to supplement it with a concentrate feed. There is a number of different concentrate feeds, which have varying contents and thereby varying effects. ,

It is important to remember that a bale of haylage/ensilage will eventually go bad as the bale's preservatives stop functioning. How long this takes depends on factors such as temperature, dry substance and bale size.

Concentrate feeds

The concentrate feed is a supplement, and which one you should choose depends greatly on the contents analysis of your hay, your horse and what you do with it. Is your horse energetic or lazy, does it have trouble gaining weight, is it a little chubby, does it work hard, is it a growing colt, is it pregnant or lactating? There are lots of factors to consider!

Examples of concentrate feed include oats, barely, wheat bran and different forms of ready-made mixes, some in pellet form.

Wet feed

Beet pulp and carrots are two examples of wet feed. Beet pulp is a by-product from sugar production. It contains a lot of sugar, which provides energy and gives a nice coat. Beet pulp may also be a good way to help the horse's digestion. It must always be soaked and allowed to swell properly before being fed to the horse, otherwise it entails a great risk of choke and colic. Carrots contain carotene, which is then converted into A vitamin. Carrots can be given in fresh or dried form. If you give your horse dried carrots, these too should be soaked for a good while before feeding.

Minerals, vitamins and salts

By conducting a feed analysis, you will find out if and how much you need to supplement the feed ration with vitamins and minerals to make it complete. Salt is a substance that the horse needs continuously, the amount varies depending on exertion and heat. The horse should therefore always have access to a salt lick.

Water

The horse must have free access to water, and it can drink up to 50 litres per day. If the horse has an automatic water drinker, it is important to make sure it has a good water flow; at least 6 litres per minute. If it fills too slowly, the horse might give up before it has actually had the amount that it needs. In general, horses will prefer water buckets to drinkers, and drink more from these, but it is more work filling the bucket(s) and making sure the horse always has water. If the horse does not have free access to water, there is a great risk of colic and obstruction. 

Feed and water

The horse is a herbivore, and in the wild it will spend 16-18 hours per day grazing. Unless the horse spends all its time in pasture, we have to feed it.

There are different types of feed that can be used: forage feeds, concentrate feeds, wet feed, minerals and vitamins. You have to distribute feedings as evenly over the day as you can, and feed your horse on at least three, but preferably more, occasions per day.

Remember that if you are unsure, or need help understanding the contents analyses, it is always best to contact a feed expert.

Roughage

The roughage is the horse's most important feed, and the one you should give it the most of.

Hay, haylage and ensilage are common types of forage feeds that you can give your horse. The hay should be should be green with plenty of leaves, and free from dust and mould. When you calculate the amount to give your horse, estimate at least 1 kg of dry substance per 100 kg horse and day*. Since the hay contains a small amount of water, you normally count 1.2 kg of hay/100 kg horse and day. A simple way to calculate the body weight of your horse is to use a weight band to measure its girth. This will tell you the weight of the horse.

To make sure the horse gets all the nutrition it needs, it is important to have its forage feed analysed, and to calculate an appropriate ration accordingly. A good forage feed may enough on its own, unless you have a colt, a pregnant or lactating mare, or a horse in hard training. However, if your forage feed is somehow lacking in nutrients, you have to supplement it with a concentrate feed. There is a number of different concentrate feeds, which have varying contents and thereby varying effects.

It is important to remember that a bale of haylage/ensilage will eventually go bad as the bale's preservatives stop functioning. How long this takes depends on factors such as temperature, dry substance and bale size.

Concentrate feeds

The concentrate feed is a supplement, and which one you should choose depends greatly on the contents analysis of your hay, your horse and what you do with it. Is your horse energetic or lazy, does it have trouble gaining weight, is it a little chubby, does it work hard, is it a growing colt, is it pregnant or lactating? There are lots of factors to consider!

Examples of concentrate feed include oats, barely, wheat bran and different forms of ready-made mixes, some in pellet form.

Wet feed

Beet pulp and carrots are two examples of wet feed. Beet pulp is a by-product from sugar production. It contains a lot of sugar, which provides energy and gives a nice coat. Beet pulp may also be a good way to help the horse's digestion. It must always be soaked and allowed to swell properly before being fed to the horse, otherwise it entails a great risk of choke and colic. Carrots contain carotene, which is then converted into A vitamin. Carrots can be given in fresh or dried form. If you give your horse dried carrots, these too should be soaked for a good while before feeding.

Minerals, vitamins and salts

By conducting a feed analysis, you will find out if and how much you need to supplement the feed ration with vitamins and minerals to make it complete. Salt is a substance that the horse needs continuously, the amount varies depending on exertion and heat. The horse should therefore always have access to a salt lick.

Water

The horse must have free access to water, and it can drink up to 50 litres per day. If the horse has an automatic water drinker, it is important to make sure it has a good water flow; at least 6 litres per minute. If it fills too slowly, the horse might give up before it has actually had the amount that it needs. In general, horses will prefer water buckets to drinkers, and drink more from these, but it is more work filling the bucket(s) and making sure the horse always has water. If the horse does not have free access to water, there is a great risk of colic and obstruction.

All horses get intestinal parasites, but most often they will not pose any threat to their health, unless they occur in great amounts. Foals and young horses get parasites to a greater extent, while older horses have often built up an immunity against them. To find out whether your horse is heavily contaminated, you need to send a dung sample from the horse to a laboratory such as Vidilab's kollamasken.

The optimal time to send samples is in April-May. This allows you time for any necessary deworming before the summer pasture, thus avoiding further contamination. If your horse is infested with several parasites, you may also take a follow-up sample around 14 days after the deworming. Another good time to take a sample is in September-October, before the horse returns to the stable.

All deworming drug treatments for horses require a prescription. This is due to the fact that many parasites have become, or risks becoming, resistant to the existing drugs. If your horse turns out to have parasites, you should contact your veterinarian for advice and a prescription for a suitable drug treatment.

These are few of the most common parasites:

Large and small redworm

Live in the large intestine of the horse. In greater amounts, they may cause colic, diarrhoea and weight-loss Deworming is most effective in spring.

Large roundworm

Lives in the small intestine, and most often only occurs in foals. Poor growth, decreased appetite and colic may be symptoms of infection. Foals should be treated for large roundworm at 8 and 16 weeks.

Tapeworm

Lives in the junction between the small and large intestines. Colic and constipation of the cecum may occur in the event larger amounts of the parasite. Deworming is most effective in spring.

Bots

The botflies lay their eggs primarily on the front legs of the horse in the summer. When the horse uses its mouth to scratch its legs, it gets larvae in its mouth, which later travel to the stomach where they stay over the winter. Large amounts can cause colic and inflammation. Deworming is most effective in the autumn, but the best thing is to remove all the eggs from the horse's legs before it eats them.

Some common vaccinations

Equine influenza (horse flu)

Equine influenza is divided into two subtypes; A1 and A2 These occur throughout the year and they are highly contagious. The symptoms include a high fever, coughing and nasal discharge. You should vaccinate your horse against influenza. If you want to compete, you must have a valid vaccination to participate in any competition. Keep track of how often your horse needs its shots, and check the competition rules to make sure you live up to them. If you are unsure, contact your veterinarian.

Tetanus

Tetanus is caused by a bacteria found, for example, in dirt. Infected wounds most often arise as the result of a puncture wound in the hoof or in another place. The poison that builds up affects the nervous system, making the horse stiff and giving it trouble swallowing. The mortality rate is high, and vaccination is therefore to be recommended.

Botulism

If you feed your horse haylage or ensilage, you may want to vaccinate it against botulism, however, check with your veterinarian first. Clostridium botulinum is bacteria that produces a neurotoxin; botulinum toxin, which is lethal to horses. The bacteria may form in the feed if dirt or dead animals have been wrapped in with the hay bale. This places high demands on both harvesting and storage to achieve good results.

Spara

Deworming and vaccination

All horses get intestinal parasites, but most often they will not pose any threat to their health, unless they occur in great amounts. Foals and young horses get parasites to a greater extent, while older horses have often built up an immunity against them. To find out whether your horse is heavily contaminated, you need to send a dung sample from the horse to a laboratory such as Vidilab's kollamasken.

The optimal time to send samples is in April-May. This allows you time for any necessary deworming before the summer pasture, thus avoiding further contamination. If your horse is infested with several parasites, you may also take a follow-up sample around 14 days after the deworming. Another good time to take a sample is in September-October, before the horse returns to the stable.

All deworming drug treatments for horses require a prescription. This is due to the fact that many parasites have become, or risks becoming, resistant to the existing drugs. If your horse turns out to have parasites, you should contact your veterinarian for advice and a prescription for a suitable drug treatment.

These are few of the most common parasites

Large and small redworm

Live in the large intestine of the horse. In greater amounts, they may cause colic, diarrhoea and weight-loss Deworming is most effective in spring.

Large roundworm

Lives in the small intestine, and most often only occurs in foals. Poor growth, decreased appetite and colic may be symptoms of infection. Foals should be treated for large roundworm at 8 and 16 weeks.

Tapeworm

Lives in the junction between the small and large intestines. Colic and constipation of the cecum may occur in the event larger amounts of the parasite. Deworming is most effective in spring.

Bots

The botflies lay their eggs primarily on the front legs of the horse in the summer. When the horse uses its mouth to scratch its legs, it gets larvae in its mouth, which later travel to the stomach where they stay over the winter. Large amounts can cause colic and inflammation. Deworming is most effective in the autumn, but the best thing is to remove all the eggs from the horse's legs before it eats them.

Some common vaccinations

Equine influenza (horse flu)

Equine influenza is divided into two subtypes; A1 and A2 These occur throughout the year and they are highly contagious. The symptoms include a high fever, coughing and nasal discharge. You should vaccinate your horse against influenza. If you want to compete, you must have a valid vaccination to participate in any competition. Keep track of how often your horse needs its shots, and check the competition rules to make sure you live up to them. If you are unsure, contact your veterinarian.

Tetanus

Tetanus is caused by a bacteria found, for example, in dirt. Infected wounds most often arise as the result of a puncture wound in the hoof or in another place. The poison that builds up affects the nervous system, making the horse stiff and giving it trouble swallowing. The mortality rate is high, and vaccination is therefore to be recommended.

Botulism

If you feed your horse haylage or ensilage, you may want to vaccinate it against botulism, however, check with your veterinarian first. Clostridium botulinum is bacteria that produces a neurotoxin; botulinum toxin, which is lethal to horses. The bacteria may form in the feed if dirt or dead animals have been wrapped in with the hay bale. This places high demands on both harvesting and storage to achieve good results.

Horses are intelligent animals that are very capable of learning. But all horses are wild inside and have a natural flight instinct, something you should always be conscious of when training with them.

\\\"As with all animal training, you need to find the animal's motivation if you want to teach it anything. You also need patience,\\\" says Jenny Yngvesson, a researcher and teacher of aetiology, animal protection and animal welfare at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences (SLU).

\\\"I regard horses as wild horses. Whether it's a harness racing horse or a Shetland pony, all horses are wild on the inside. For this reason, anyone who deals with horses must be aware that they are herd animals, have a flight instinct and need to eat grass practically all the time. This are the things that motivate horses,\\\" says Jenny. She explains that all animals with a flight instinct are afraid of things, and this fear negatively affects their learning ability.

\\\"If you want to teach a horse something new, it mustn't be afraid as that's a bad starting point. Also, anyone who wants to train animals needs knowledge of the animal's learning process. You need to understand the difference between positive and negative reinforcement.\\\"

While some horses clearly show their fear, others are harder to read.

\\\"Some rear their head, show the whites of their eyes, flare their nostrils and snort to warn the other horses in the herd. Others are more discreet, until they have a sudden explosive reaction. The maximum sign of fear is panic and bolting.\\\"

\\\"Horses aren't stupid\\\"

Fear of thing and situations can be trained away. One important thing to understand is something a horse is not afraid of in its home surroundings might frighten it at a competition or at the stables.

\\\"A horse may need to repeatedly be taught the same thing in different places. This isn't because horses are stupid; it's something that has helped them survive for millions of years. They've adapted to life as horses. So don't lose patience.\\\"

Unlike cows, for instance, which have horns, horses have no natural defence weapons so tend to run away if they feel threatened.

\\\"They might kick, but fleeing is their best defence. Again, they're not stupid. They run first and think later because this has been their most successful survival tactic for millions of years,\\\" explains Jenny.

Turn negative into positive

A frightened horse can be calmed down, and Jenny has some useful tips to share in this respect.

\\\"You can turn a negative reaction into a positive one. This is called counter-conditioning and means that the horse learns to associate something frightening with something positive, thereby inducing a positive reaction to the thing that originally frightened it. For instance, you might get out the horse lick along with the horse clippers. Say your horse is afraid of umbrellas. Have one person hold the horse and another person hold the umbrella. When an umbrella is opened, a horse often initially reacts by rearing its head. If this happens, the person holding the umbrella can back slightly. Lead the horse slowly towards the umbrella while the person holding the umbrella continues moving backwards. Finally, have the horse nuzzle the umbrella. When it does, give it a treat to eat. This turns a negative reaction into a positive one. If a horse refuses one of its favourite treats, this means it is very frightened, so make sure to back away before the flight reaction kicks in,\\\" says Jenny, and suggests learning to take a horse's pulse.

\\\"This helps you gauge how frightened it actually is. The easiest place to take a horse's pulse is under its chin near the throat, or inside its front leg near the knee.\\\"

Stop before triggering the flight instinct

Is your horse afraid of being transported? It's not alone.

\\\"It's natural for horses to be afraid of travelling, although not all of them make a fuss about it. If your horse is afraid of the horse transporter, don't start training it on the morning you need to leave. Start maybe a month in advance by bringing the horse close to the transporter. Next, take it right up to the transporter. Then go a little way in and slowly and steadily take it further inside.

It can also help to have an older horse that is used to travelling present during the training.

\\\"You can train the fear out of an anxious horse if you are willing to spend time on it. Don't be discouraged or lose patience. And make sure you never push the horse far enough to trigger its flight instinct. Stop before that happens.

Take control of yourself

Is it true that horses pick up on the rider's mood and emotional state? Jenny explains:

\\\"There isn't much research on this subject, but some studies suggest that if your pulse increases, the horse's pulse may also increase. Like many animals, we can become tense. We can sense when an animal is tense, and they can sense it in us.\\\" Horses can probably also read certain human facial expressions.

It's useful to take a deep breath and exhale slowly.

\\\"This makes you relax, which will help make the horse calmer. You need to take control of yourself and signal that it's time to calm down. Because we are in such close contact with the horse when riding, it is very sensitive to our signals. The slightest tension can be felt through the reigns and in our thighs. Although we can't control our impulsive reactions, if something frightens you it's vital to quickly regain control of yourself.\\\"

Are you in a bad mood? Skip the riding session

Some studies also suggest that horses become harder to manage if someone has a negative attitude towards them.

\\\"Study participants who didn't like horses had more difficulty controlling the horse. So if you feel angry, irritated and impatient, you probably won't be able to anything advanced with the horse on that day. Things will be difficult and could even get dangerous. So it might be best to just brush your horse and ride it another day. Personally, I think if we're having problems, rather than blaming the horse we should first examine our own behaviour.\\\"

Meet Jenny Yngvesson

Jenny's basic training is in aetiology/zoology and biology. Since the 1990s, she has continued to study animal behaviour at Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences. She has mainly conducted research on farm animals such as cows, pigs and hens, and has loved horses since childhood. Her interest in animals in general and horses in particular lead her to start doing equestrian research. Her first study was of horse injuries, and aimed to ascertain what behavioural characteristics make certain horses prone to injuring themselves on fences, hooks, buckets, gratings etc. Today she is leading a project that compares Swedish riding schools with a free-range setup to schools with boxes and stalls. The project is scheduled for completion in summer of 2018. Jenny's regular job is as a researcher and lecturer in aetiology, animal protection and animal welfare at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences.

In her free time, she enjoys training her young North Swedish horse in horse driving and riding.

Tips from Jenny 

\\r\\n
• Choose a horse according to your ability and preferences to avoid having unrealistic expectations of your horse. Horses are good at learning but are also large, powerful animals with a fight or flight instinct. This causes many accidents in equestrian sports.
\\r\\n

\\r\\n
• I think a riding school is an excellent way to start riding. I have been to many riding schools, and they generally have a good environment for horses. They live in steady groups, graze in flocks, associate with the same horses in the paddock and stable and spend time with the same individuals. The horses have a steady temperament and are tended to by well-trained people who know what workload and diet they should have.
\\r\\n

\\r\\n
• Practise with a docile pony and an experienced trainer and absorb as much knowledge as you can. Choose the right size pony. Don't buy a pony for your child immediately unless you have personal experience of horses, unless you have an expert network of contacts.
\\r\\n

\\r\\n
• Spend time around as many horses as possible. Talk to other horse enthusiasts. Ask questions about riding, driving and horse handling. Think about your experiences in different situations and try to analyse the reasons. Learn from your mistakes through regular practice – always using a helmet and the right equipment.
\\r\\n

\\r\\n
• Read everything you can find, and read it critically. You can find plenty of information on the internet and in books. Compare what other people say, watch YouTube videos and ask people to film you when you're riding, driving or generally handling the horse.
\\r\\n

\\r\\n
• Train your horse to stand at a given command. It's as useful as saying 'sit' to your dog.
\\r\\n

\\r\\n
• You can also train your horse to lower its head at a specific command. This is useful in many situations.
\\r\\n

Habituation and counter-conditioning

Something you need to know about is habituation, which means training a horse to stop reacting negatively to something that it previously found frightening. For example, horses that were afraid of cows can be trained to stop having this reaction by bringing the horse into a field next to a field with cows, since the horse gradually learns that nothing bad will happen. Although habituation can be used for training horses, it is important not to push the horse too much or progress too quickly.

A quicker method for getting horses used to something they find frightening is counter-conditioning. This means training the horse to associate something frightening with something pleasurable. For instance, if a horse is afraid of horse clippers, you can give it a treat when it accepts being close to the clippers. Gradually increase your requirements. Start by giving it a treat when the clippers are in operation. Next, give it a treat while pretending to use the clippers with the motor switched off, and so forth

Horse behaviour

Horses are intelligent animals that are very capable of learning. But all horses are wild inside and have a natural flight instinct, something you should always be conscious of when training with them.

\\\"As with all animal training, you need to find the animal's motivation if you want to teach it anything. You also need patience,\\\" says Jenny Yngvesson, a researcher and teacher of aetiology, animal protection and animal welfare at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences (SLU).

\\\"I regard horses as wild horses. Whether it's a harness racing horse or a Shetland pony, all horses are wild on the inside. For this reason, anyone who deals with horses must be aware that they are herd animals, have a flight instinct and need to eat grass practically all the time. This are the things that motivate horses,\\\" says Jenny. She explains that all animals with a flight instinct are afraid of things, and this fear negatively affects their learning ability.

\\\"If you want to teach a horse something new, it mustn't be afraid as that's a bad starting point. Also, anyone who wants to train animals needs knowledge of the animal's learning process. You need to understand the difference between positive and negative reinforcement.\\\"

While some horses clearly show their fear, others are harder to read.

\\\"Some rear their head, show the whites of their eyes, flare their nostrils and snort to warn the other horses in the herd. Others are more discreet, until they have a sudden explosive reaction. The maximum sign of fear is panic and bolting.\\\"

\\\"Horses aren't stupid\\\"

Fear of thing and situations can be trained away. One important thing to understand is something a horse is not afraid of in its home surroundings might frighten it at a competition or at the stables.

\\\"A horse may need to repeatedly be taught the same thing in different places. This isn't because horses are stupid; it's something that has helped them survive for millions of years. They've adapted to life as horses. So don't lose patience.\\\"

Unlike cows, for instance, which have horns, horses have no natural defence weapons so tend to run away if they feel threatened.

\\\"They might kick, but fleeing is their best defence. Again, they're not stupid. They run first and think later because this has been their most successful survival tactic for millions of years,\\\" explains Jenny.

Turn negative into positive

A frightened horse can be calmed down, and Jenny has some useful tips to share in this respect.

\\\"You can turn a negative reaction into a positive one. This is called counter-conditioning and means that the horse learns to associate something frightening with something positive, thereby inducing a positive reaction to the thing that originally frightened it. For instance, you might get out the horse lick along with the horse clippers. Say your horse is afraid of umbrellas. Have one person hold the horse and another person hold the umbrella. When an umbrella is opened, a horse often initially reacts by rearing its head. If this happens, the person holding the umbrella can back slightly. Lead the horse slowly towards the umbrella while the person holding the umbrella continues moving backwards. Finally, have the horse nuzzle the umbrella. When it does, give it a treat to eat. This turns a negative reaction into a positive one. If a horse refuses one of its favourite treats, this means it is very frightened, so make sure to back away before the flight reaction kicks in,\\\" says Jenny, and suggests learning to take a horse's pulse.

\\\"This helps you gauge how frightened it actually is. The easiest place to take a horse's pulse is under its chin near the throat, or inside its front leg near the knee.\\\"

Stop before triggering the flight instinct

Is your horse afraid of being transported? It's not alone.

\\\"It's natural for horses to be afraid of travelling, although not all of them make a fuss about it. If your horse is afraid of the horse transporter, don't start training it on the morning you need to leave. Start maybe a month in advance by bringing the horse close to the transporter. Next, take it right up to the transporter. Then go a little way in and slowly and steadily take it further inside.

It can also help to have an older horse that is used to travelling present during the training.

\\\"You can train the fear out of an anxious horse if you are willing to spend time on it. Don't be discouraged or lose patience. And make sure you never push the horse far enough to trigger its flight instinct. Stop before that happens.

Take control of yourself

Is it true that horses pick up on the rider's mood and emotional state? Jenny explains:

\\\"There isn't much research on this subject, but some studies suggest that if your pulse increases, the horse's pulse may also increase. Like many animals, we can become tense. We can sense when an animal is tense, and they can sense it in us.\\\" Horses can probably also read certain human facial expressions.

It's useful to take a deep breath and exhale slowly.

\\\"This makes you relax, which will help make the horse calmer. You need to take control of yourself and signal that it's time to calm down. Because we are in such close contact with the horse when riding, it is very sensitive to our signals. The slightest tension can be felt through the reigns and in our thighs. Although we can't control our impulsive reactions, if something frightens you it's vital to quickly regain control of yourself.\\\"

Are you in a bad mood? Skip the riding session

Some studies also suggest that horses become harder to manage if someone has a negative attitude towards them.

\\\"Study participants who didn't like horses had more difficulty controlling the horse. So if you feel angry, irritated and impatient, you probably won't be able to anything advanced with the horse on that day. Things will be difficult and could even get dangerous. So it might be best to just brush your horse and ride it another day. Personally, I think if we're having problems, rather than blaming the horse we should first examine our own behaviour.\\\"

Meet Jenny Yngvesson

Jenny's basic training is in aetiology/zoology and biology. Since the 1990s, she has continued to study animal behaviour at Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences. She has mainly conducted research on farm animals such as cows, pigs and hens, and has loved horses since childhood. Her interest in animals in general and horses in particular lead her to start doing equestrian research. Her first study was of horse injuries, and aimed to ascertain what behavioural characteristics make certain horses prone to injuring themselves on fences, hooks, buckets, gratings etc. Today she is leading a project that compares Swedish riding schools with a free-range setup to schools with boxes and stalls. The project is scheduled for completion in summer of 2018. Jenny's regular job is as a researcher and lecturer in aetiology, animal protection and animal welfare at the Swedish University of Agricultural Sciences.

In her free time, she enjoys training her young North Swedish horse in horse driving and riding.

Tips from Jenny

\\n
• Choose a horse according to your ability and preferences to avoid having unrealistic expectations of your horse. Horses are good at learning but are also large, powerful animals with a fight or flight instinct. This causes many accidents in equestrian sports.
\\n
• I think a riding school is an excellent way to start riding. I have been to many riding schools, and they generally have a good environment for horses. They live in steady groups, graze in flocks, associate with the same horses in the paddock and stable and spend time with the same individuals. The horses have a steady temperament and are tended to by well-trained people who know what workload and diet they should have.
\\n
• Practise with a docile pony and an experienced trainer and absorb as much knowledge as you can. Choose the right size pony. Don't buy a pony for your child immediately unless you have personal experience of horses, unless you have an expert network of contacts.
\\n
• Spend time around as many horses as possible. Talk to other horse enthusiasts. Ask questions about riding, driving and horse handling. Think about your experiences in different situations and try to analyse the reasons. Learn from your mistakes through regular practice – always using a helmet and the right equipment.
\\n
• Read everything you can find, and read it critically. You can find plenty of information on the internet and in books. Compare what other people say, watch YouTube videos and ask people to film you when you're riding, driving or generally handling the horse.
\\n
• Train your horse to stand at a given command. It's as useful as saying 'sit' to your dog.
\\n
• You can also train your horse to lower its head at a specific command. This is useful in many situations.
\\n

Habituation and counter-conditioning

Something you need to know about is habituation, which means training a horse to stop reacting negatively to something that it previously found frightening. For example, horses that were afraid of cows can be trained to stop having this reaction by bringing the horse into a field next to a field with cows, since the horse gradually learns that nothing bad will happen. Although habituation can be used for training horses, it is important not to push the horse too much or progress too quickly.

A quicker method for getting horses used to something they find frightening is counter-conditioning. This means training the horse to associate something frightening with something pleasurable. For instance, if a horse is afraid of horse clippers, you can give it a treat when it accepts being close to the clippers. Gradually increase your requirements. Start by giving it a treat when the clippers are in operation. Next, give it a treat while pretending to use the clippers with the motor switched off, and so forth

Make sure that you learn as much as possible about how horses react and why. This allows you to handle the horse in a way that is safe and minimises the risk of accidents.

Handle the horse with respect and in a safe way and you will both benefit. There are certain things that you do more or less on a daily basis. If you do them in a safe way, you create a calm and safe environment for both yourself and the horse.

Below, there are a few suggestions about how to safely handle the horse and ride in a safe way.

\\r\\n
• Talk to the horse and make it aware you are coming before you go in with it.
\\r\\n
• Get in the habit of leading the horse with a halter and halter strap or bridle, even if you are only moving it from the box to the grooming area.
\\r\\n
• Keep the stable walkway clear of kit and don't let halters that are attached to the tie-up strap lie on the stable floor. It is highly likely that someone will get their leg stuck in the halter.
\\r\\n
• When you put a rug on the horse, begin by securing it in the front at the shoulders and then secure the surcingles and any leg ties. When you take of the rug, begin with the leg ties and then move forward.
\\r\\n
• Learn to bandage the horse's legs in the right way so that the bandage rolls out from the horse if it comes loose.
\\r\\n
• When you are going to lead the horse through a door, make sure there is nothing that the horse can get stuck in. Always walk a bit in front of the horse through the door so that you don't get crushed.
\\r\\n
• If you are leading more than one horse in a line, ensure that a safe distance is kept between the horses, i.e. at least half a length.
\\r\\n
• When you are going to ride your horse, always let someone know where you plan to ride and when you think you will get back. It is a good idea to take a mobile phone.
\\r\\n
\\r\\n

Procedures for handling horses and horse-riding

Make sure that you learn as much as possible about how horses react and why. This allows you to handle the horse in a way that is safe and minimises the risk of accidents.

Handle the horse with respect and in a safe way and you will both benefit. There are certain things that you do more or less on a daily basis. If you do them in a safe way, you create a calm and safe environment for both yourself and the horse.

Below, there are a few suggestions about how to safely handle the horse and ride in a safe way

\\n
• Talk to the horse and make it aware you are coming before you go in with it.
\\n
• Get in the habit of leading the horse with a halter and halter strap or bridle, even if you are only moving it from the box to the grooming area.
\\n
• Keep the stable walkway clear of kit and don't let halters that are attached to the tie-up strap lie on the stable floor. It is highly likely that someone will get their leg stuck in the halter.
\\n
• When you put a rug on the horse, begin by securing it in the front at the shoulders and then secure the surcingles and any leg ties. When you take of the rug, begin with the leg ties and then move forward.
\\n
• Learn to bandage the horse's legs in the right way so that the bandage rolls out from the horse if it comes loose.
\\n
• When you are going to lead the horse through a door, make sure there is nothing that the horse can get stuck in. Always walk a bit in front of the horse through the door so that you don't get crushed.
\\n
• If you are leading more than one horse in a line, ensure that a safe distance is kept between the horses, i.e. at least half a length.
\\n
• When you are going to ride your horse, always let someone know where you plan to ride and when you think you will get back. It is a good idea to take a mobile phone.
\\n

After a long, cold winter we cannot wait for summer to bring sun, green grass and warm evenings. But along with the heat comes mosquitos, midges, horse flies and other insects that bother horses. With right tools and knowledge, we can make summer pasture easier on our four-legged friends. 
Some horses may have allergic reactions to stings, which in the worst case could lead to heart failure. A horse that is highly bothered by insects may also become agitated and start to kick and scratch itself, or move around a lot to get away from them, which prevents it from grazing. The horse may be irritated by more than the blood-sucking insects; regular flies may also bother them, and contribute to eye and sore infections.

The most irritating insects
There is a large number of blood-sucking insects in Sweden, such as mosquitos, midges and horse flies. Many of them reproduce in water and wetlands, such as lakes, streams and bogs. For this reason, they are also the most active near water or humid forest areas. They are primarily attracted by the odours of animals and humans, but also by heat and carbon dioxide. Midges and mosquitos are mostly active in shady areas, around dusk and in the evening, while horse flies may attack in the middle of the day in scorching sun.

How to help your horse

There are a few tricks that we can resort to in order to protect our horses from the worst insect attacks. The scope of the infestations will depend on the time of year, climate and area. The sensitivity to insects also varies between individual horses. So the trick is to find a method that suits you and your horse.

Look over your horse's paddocks and pastures

If possible, avoid keeping it in excessively humid areas, close to water or where there is a lot of undergrowth. Make sure that your horse has shelter or, if you can, put it in stables during the times of the day when the insects are most active.

Use insect guards

The horse has its natural protection in the form of its mane, forelock and tail. But if this is not enough, you can add a fly fringe or fly mask to protect the horse's head from insects, or a fly sheet that protects large parts of the body against most stings and bites.

Insect repellent

There are also many different types of insect repellents that may help you and your horse to keep the insects at bay. The first time you use a new chemical product, you should check how your horse will react to it by first applying it to a small area, for example on the chest, before using it more extensively. Remember to read the instructions carefully before applying any insect repellent to your horse.

Look your horse over regularly

If your horse has been severely attacked by insects, you should provide treatment as soon as possible. Wash any wounds to prevent infection, and take your horse's temperature regularly using a thermometer intended for horses and livestock. Keep a watchful eye on the affected area to catch any signs of infection or inflammation; look out for swelling and bad odour. Always consult your veterinarian if you are unsure.

Your nearest Höök retailer or our online store can offer you the best products to help you and your horse combat the most irritating insects. We have insect protection, antiseptic solutions, thermometers for horses and other products that you and your horse may need this spring and summer.

Protect Your Horse from Flies and Insects in the Best Way!

After a long and cold winter, it's a relief when summer arrives with sunshine, green grass, and warm evenings. But with the heat also come new challenges, such as mosquitoes, gnats, flies, and other insects that bother horses. Flies, insects, and mosquitoes are not just annoying—they can also cause more serious issues like infected bites or allergic reactions. That's why it's important to protect your horse from summer pests in the best possible way.

Let us help you make summer a season of joy and well-being for both you and your horse!

Keep Insects, Mosquitoes, and Flies Away with Fly Repellents

You can protect your horse from insects, mosquitoes, and flies with different types of fly repellents. There are both sprays and creams designed to combat summer pests. What works best for your horse is individual—if your horse is sensitive to stronger products, there are fly repellents made with essential oils.

The best combination is using both fly spray and fly cream. The spray provides overall coverage, while the cream allows you to target hard-to-reach or more sensitive areas. It’s important not to apply strong products, such as fly spray, near your horse's eyes, mouth, or mucous membranes—use a cream for these sensitive areas instead.

Fly spray, also known as insect spray, is an effective and affordable option, as just a few sprays can provide full coverage against flies and insects. There are many different brands available, and in our range, you’ll find a wide selection of insect sprays to suit your needs.

Unlike fly spray, fly cream is ideal for protecting specific areas of your horse’s body. It’s especially useful around the eyes, muzzle, and groin.

Browse Our Fly Repellents

Protect Your Horse’s Eyes, Ears, and Face

It’s not uncommon for horses to develop watery and irritated eyes due to flies, making proper protection essential. Give your horse extra defense against flies and insects by using a fly mask or a fly fringe. A fly mask covers and protects your horse’s face, eyes, and sometimes ears, while a fly fringe acts as an extra forelock, making it easier for your horse to swat away flies and insects.

A fly mask features a protective mesh that keeps insects, mosquitoes, and flies at bay, ensuring your horse stays comfortable while outdoors. The mesh also serves as a shield against strong sunlight, preventing your horse from being dazzled. There are various models of fly masks to meet your horse's needs. If your horse is bothered by insects around its ears, there are masks with ear covers. If your horse is extra sensitive on its nose, there are masks with added nose protection. Some fly masks fasten with Velcro straps for easy adjustment, while others simply slip on. If your horse is prone to chafing, slip-on masks are often a better option as they have fewer seams that could cause irritation.

A fly fringe, also called a fly veil, extends your horse’s forelock and helps them shake off pesky flies more easily. The fly fringe attaches easily to your horse’s halter or bridle.

Shop Fly Masks & Fly Fringes

The Difference Between Fly Rugs & Eczema Rugs

Sometimes fly repellents aren’t enough to keep insects away. In such cases, a fly rug can help protect your horse from insect bites, flies, and gnats. If your horse is particularly sensitive to summer pests or suffers from sweet itch or sun allergies, an eczema  rug with UV protection can be a great solution.

The main difference between a fly rug and an eczema rug is that the latter is made of thicker fabric, offering additional protection against UV rays and bothersome insects.

Explore Our Fly & Eczema Rugs

Whether or not to clip the horse depends on a number of different factors; far from all horses require clipping. Based on the below questions, you can decide whether you should or want to clip your horse, and what type clip would be right for your horse.

\\r\\n
• How often do you ride your horse until it is sweaty?
\\r\\n
• Does your horse spend much of the day outside? Or is it perhaps in loose housing?
\\r\\n
• Do you ride in an arena or mostly outside?
\\r\\n
• What is the temperature of the stables?
\\r\\n
• Are you willing to compensate for the clipped coat with the various rugs needed?
\\r\\n

If you decide to clip your horse, you start by clipping in the autumn, when the horse grows its winter coat. Depending on the growth of the coat, you may have to clip the horse a few more times during the course of the winter. When spring is approaching, you should stop clipping, since it may disrupt the natural shedding, which would result in a poor summer coat. Read more about different clip types below.

Full clip

All of the coat is removed. There is a variation of the full clip where you save the coat on the legs and the area underneath the saddle. On the head, you clip the cheek in line with the cheek piece of the bridle.

Irish clip

The neck, chest, front legs and half the abdomen is clipped (you can draw a diagonal line from the withers to the groin).

Blanket clip

The horse is clipped so that the remaining coat forms a rug or blanket on its back. The coat on the legs is saved, but if the horse sweats a lot, it is possible to cut an oval up to the flank.

Hunter clip

All of the coat is removed on the body. The head, legs and an area underneath the saddle, in the form of a numnah, are spared.

Trace clip

The coat is clipped from the throat latch, down the throat, the lower part of the abdomen and all the way to the back of the thigh. This clip does not require as much covering of the horse, as the clipped parts are relatively small.

Icelandic clip

A triangle covering the throat and chest is clipped, as this is where the horse will sweat the most. At the same time, this clip allows the horse to spend a lot of time outside. 

Benefits of clipping

\\r\\n
• The horse sweats less, which increases its stamina, and many horses will gain energy after a clipping.
\\r\\n
• If the horse sweats, it will dry off quicker, which also impacts on the stable environment.
\\r\\n
• It will be easier to keep the horse clean.
\\r\\n

This is how you do it

Safety is important! It is always good to have another person present. Make sure that the surface the horse is standing on is dry; never clip in a wet stall, as water and electricity do not mix. You should use a circuit breaker that is triggered immediately if there is a problem with the clippers. Make sure that the chord is not lying on the floor for the horse to step on.

Lubricate the machine and blades before you begin and during the work. Listen carefully to catch any changes in the noise of the machine as these could indicate that it is struggling or becoming overheated. Feel the blades to make sure they do not heat up and burn the horse. It is also important that the blades are sharp, otherwise they may pinch the horse. It is good to turn the machine off every now and then to let it cool down. 

You should start by getting your horse used to the sound of the machine. If the horse is uncomfortable with the noise, you can put some cotton balls in its ears. Then run the clippers along the body so that the horse can get used to the vibration. If this goes well, you can start clipping.

Always move the machine against the direction of the hairs, and work in long, even strokes for the best results. Learning to clip well takes time. You can draw out the lines to cut with chalk or water-soluble ink, it will help you get an even result.

There are a number of different clippers to choose from. It is preferable not to have a machine that is too heavy or too loud. There are both AC-powered and battery-powered clippers. The battery-powered ones are often easier to use and quieter, which makes them more suitable for sensitive horses. The benefit of an AC-powered machine is that they are most often more powerful, and you do not have to worry about the battery dying.

Important to remember

A clipped horse is much more exposed to chafing from rugs, saddles and legs. Make sure that all your equipment is the right fit. Sometimes coat sheen can help prevent chafing.

Clipping the horse

Whether or not to clip the horse depends on a number of different factors; far from all horses require clipping. Based on the below questions, you can decide whether you should or want to clip your horse, and what type clip would be right for your horse.

\\n
• How often do you ride your horse until it is sweaty?
\\n
• Does your horse spend much of the day outside? Or is it perhaps in loose housing?
\\n
• Do you ride in an arena or mostly outside?
\\n
• What is the temperature of the stables?
\\n
• Are you willing to compensate for the clipped coat with the various rugs needed?
\\n

If you decide to clip your horse, you start by clipping in the autumn, when the horse grows its winter coat. Depending on the growth of the coat, you may have to clip the horse a few more times during the course of the winter. When spring is approaching, you should stop clipping, since it may disrupt the natural shedding, which would result in a poor summer coat. Read more about different clip types below.

Full clip

All of the coat is removed. There is a variation of the full clip where you save the coat on the legs and the area underneath the saddle. On the head, you clip the cheek in line with the cheek piece of the bridle.

Irish clip

The neck, chest, front legs and half the abdomen is clipped (you can draw a diagonal line from the withers to the groin).

Blanket clip

The horse is clipped so that the remaining coat forms a rug or blanket on its back. The coat on the legs is saved, but if the horse sweats a lot, it is possible to cut an oval up to the flank.

Hunter clip

All of the coat is removed on the body. The head, legs and an area underneath the saddle, in the form of a numnah, are spared.

Trace clip

The coat is clipped from the throat latch, down the throat, the lower part of the abdomen and all the way to the back of the thigh. This clip does not require as much covering of the horse, as the clipped parts are relatively small.

Icelandic clip

A triangle covering the throat and chest is clipped, as this is where the horse will sweat the most. At the same time, this clip allows the horse to spend a lot of time outside.

Benefits of clipping

\\n
• The horse sweats less, which increases its stamina, and many horses will gain energy after a clipping.
\\n
• If the horse sweats, it will dry off quicker, which also impacts on the stable environment.
\\n
• It will be easier to keep the horse clean.
\\n

This is how you do it

Safety is important! It is always good to have another person present. Make sure that the surface the horse is standing on is dry; never clip in a wet stall, as water and electricity do not mix. You should use a circuit breaker that is triggered immediately if there is a problem with the clippers. Make sure that the chord is not lying on the floor for the horse to step on.

Lubricate the machine and blades before you begin and during the work. Listen carefully to catch any changes in the noise of the machine as these could indicate that it is struggling or becoming overheated. Feel the blades to make sure they do not heat up and burn the horse. It is also important that the blades are sharp, otherwise they may pinch the horse. It is good to turn the machine off every now and then to let it cool down.

You should start by getting your horse used to the sound of the machine. If the horse is uncomfortable with the noise, you can put some cotton balls in its ears. Then run the clippers along the body so that the horse can get used to the vibration. If this goes well, you can start clipping.

Always move the machine against the direction of the hairs, and work in long, even strokes for the best results. Learning to clip well takes time. You can draw out the lines to cut with chalk or water-soluble ink, it will help you get an even result.

There are a number of different clippers to choose from. It is preferable not to have a machine that is too heavy or too loud. There are both AC-powered and battery-powered clippers. The battery-powered ones are often easier to use and quieter, which makes them more suitable for sensitive horses. The benefit of an AC-powered machine is that they are most often more powerful, and you do not have to worry about the battery dying.

Important to remember

A clipped horse is much more exposed to chafing from rugs, saddles and legs. Make sure that all your equipment is the right fit. Sometimes coat sheen can help prevent chafing.

Stretching and massaging your horse is in many cases good for it, however, you should get help from a trained massage therapist to do it right

After strenuous work or stress, which could be caused by inappropriate equipment or injury, the muscles may contract and become stiff, and this will influence the horse's movements. Stretching and massage can help you discover muscle tension at an early stage, which may be an indication of the horse's health status. This could help you prevent injuries.

Massage

Massages improve the blood circulation and helps waste products being transported away from the muscles more quickly, which leads to a reduced risk of soreness and stiffness. When muscle tension is relieved, the pain goes away and mobility as well as work capacity is improved. The positive effects of a massage are many.

Stretching

To stretch the horse, it must have been moving and be properly warmed up. Stretching after a training session reduces the risk of soreness, and it speeds up the elimination of waste products. A muscle that is stretched will become more elastic, and not as prone to tears and other injuries.

Stretching and massaging the horse does not have to be complicated. When you groom the horse thoroughly, you are essentially giving it a massage. To learn how to stretch and massage the horse more effectively, there is plenty of literature, films and excellent courses that you can take.

Would you like some help?

The website of the Nordic Horse Massage Therapists' Association, www.nhmf.se, contains a list of licenced horse massage therapists.

Stretching and massage

Stretching and massaging your horse is in many cases good for it, however, you should get help from a trained massage therapist to do it right

After strenuous work or stress, which could be caused by inappropriate equipment or injury, the muscles may contract and become stiff, and this will influence the horse's movements. Stretching and massage can help you discover muscle tension at an early stage, which may be an indication of the horse's health status. This could help you prevent injuries.

Massage

Massages improve the blood circulation and helps waste products being transported away from the muscles more quickly, which leads to a reduced risk of soreness and stiffness. When muscle tension is relieved, the pain goes away and mobility as well as work capacity is improved. The positive effects of a massage are many.

Stretching

To stretch the horse, it must have been moving and be properly warmed up. Stretching after a training session reduces the risk of soreness, and it speeds up the elimination of waste products. A muscle that is stretched will become more elastic, and not as prone to tears and other injuries.

Stretching and massaging the horse does not have to be complicated. When you groom the horse thoroughly, you are essentially giving it a massage. To learn how to stretch and massage the horse more effectively, there is plenty of literature, films and excellent courses that you can take.

Would you like some help?

The website of the Nordic Horse Massage Therapists' Association, www.nhmf.se, contains a list of licenced horse massage therapists.

Grooming and caring for your horse as well as you can is a given. But what does it take to do this in the best way?

Everyday care of your horse includes brushing, grooming and picking out the hooves so that your horse gets really clean. While you groom it, you go over the horse to check for tenderness, swelling and sores. The more you do this, the quicker you will discover if something is not right.

Your choice of brushes and other grooming kit depend on the coat of your horse; if it is long-haired, clipped, gets muddy often etc. If you have a long-haired and very dirty horse, it may be preferable to start out with a dandy brush or a flick brush, with slightly harder bristles. If, on the other hand, you have a clipped horse that is skin-sensitive, you should choose a softer brush.

There are several brush models. Some are made from synthetic materials, and other from natural bristles, such as horsehair. If your horse is prone to static electricity shocks, the natural bristles are preferable. Brushes also come in several sizes, and you should pick one that suits your hand well as this will make your job easier.

Grooming not only makes your horse clean and shiny, it also improves its blood circulation. When you brush and groom your horse, you should always go with the direction of the hairs. The horse may be particularly sensitive around the head and eyes. You may therefore want to use a softer face brush for these areas.

The hooves need to be picked out every day, but the choice of pick is purely a matter of taste. There are hoof picks with hard bristles on one end, which may be helpful for brushing off loose dirt. While you are picking the hooves, also check that the shoes are properly fastened, that no seems are sticking out and that any studs you have on have not become worn or come loose.

You should also untangle the mane and tail. For this you can use a mane/tail comb, or simply use your fingers. 

The nostrils and eyes should be wiped clean, which can be done with a slightly dampened sponge or cloth. 

Things that come in handy in your grooming kit

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• Dandy brush/flick brush,
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• Body brush
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• Curry comb
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• Face brush
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• Hoof pick
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• Hoof brush
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• Sponge and/or cloth
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Care and grooming

Grooming and caring for your horse as well as you can is a given. But what does it take to do this in the best way?

Everyday care of your horse includes brushing, grooming and picking out the hooves so that your horse gets really clean. While you groom it, you go over the horse to check for tenderness, swelling and sores. The more you do this, the quicker you will discover if something is not right.

Your choice of brushes and other grooming kit depend on the coat of your horse; if it is long-haired, clipped, gets muddy often etc. If you have a long-haired and very dirty horse, it may be preferable to start out with a dandy brush or a flick brush, with slightly harder bristles. If, on the other hand, you have a clipped horse that is skin-sensitive, you should choose a softer brush.

There are several brush models. Some are made from synthetic materials, and other from natural bristles, such as horsehair. If your horse is prone to static electricity shocks, the natural bristles are preferable. Brushes also come in several sizes, and you should pick one that suits your hand well as this will make your job easier.

Grooming not only makes your horse clean and shiny, it also improves its blood circulation. When you brush and groom your horse, you should always go with the direction of the hairs. The horse may be particularly sensitive around the head and eyes. You may therefore want to use a softer face brush for these areas.

The hooves need to be picked out every day, but the choice of pick is purely a matter of taste. There are hoof picks with hard bristles on one end, which may be helpful for brushing off loose dirt. While you are picking the hooves, also check that the shoes are properly fastened, that no seems are sticking out and that any studs you have on have not become worn or come loose.

You should also untangle the mane and tail. For this you can use a mane/tail comb, or simply use your fingers.

The nostrils and eyes should be wiped clean, which can be done with a slightly dampened sponge or cloth.

Things that come in handy in your grooming kit

\\n
• Dandy brush/flick brush,
\\n
• Body brush
\\n
• Curry comb
\\n
• Face brush
\\n
• Hoof pick
\\n
• Hoof brush
\\n
• Sponge and/or cloth
\\n

All handling of your horse should be done as safely as possible – for you and the horse. When you are leading the horse inside the stables or to and from a paddock, you should put a bridle, anti-rear bit or a headcollar with a lead rein. You must NEVER wrap the lead rein around your hand or throw it over your shoulder, as this can lead to serious accidents if the horse gets spooked and takes off.

If you are leading the horse to the paddock, you should enter the paddock and then turn the horse around before you release it. This is to avoid getting kicked if the horse expresses joy by bucking as it is released. If more than one horse are being released in the same paddock, you should all enter with your horses, and turn them to face the fence with a space of at least three metres between each horse. Everyone then releases their horse at the same time.

When you are leading your horse in or out through a door, and inside the stables, it is important to make sure that there is nothing for the rug, saddle or tack to get caught on since this could easily cause the horse to panic and, in the worst case, pull away the object it is caught on, such as a door.

When you are leading the horse to and from the arena, the reins should not be hanging around the neck, with the exception of auxiliary reins. If you are leading horses out from the arena in a group, you should leave approximately one horse-length to the horse in front of you.

Leading your horse

All handling of your horse should be done as safely as possible – for you and the horse. When you are leading the horse inside the stables or to and from a paddock, you should put a bridle, anti-rear bit or a headcollar with a lead rein. You must NEVER wrap the lead rein around your hand or throw it over your shoulder, as this can lead to serious accidents if the horse gets spooked and takes off.

If you are leading the horse to the paddock, you should enter the paddock and then turn the horse around before you release it. This is to avoid getting kicked if the horse expresses joy by bucking as it is released. If more than one horse are being released in the same paddock, you should all enter with your horses, and turn them to face the fence with a space of at least three metres between each horse. Everyone then releases their horse at the same time.

When you are leading your horse in or out through a door, and inside the stables, it is important to make sure that there is nothing for the rug, saddle or tack to get caught on since this could easily cause the horse to panic and, in the worst case, pull away the object it is caught on, such as a door.

When you are leading the horse to and from the arena, the reins should not be hanging around the neck, with the exception of auxiliary reins. If you are leading horses out from the arena in a group, you should leave approximately one horse-length to the horse in front of you.

There is a saying that goes “no hooves – no horse”, and it's true! If you do not take care of your horse's hooves and make sure they are healthy, the rest of the horse will not work either.

You should look over your horse's hooves at least once a day. You should also check the hooves both before and after a ride/drive. Make it a habit to feel your horse's hooves so that you notice if one hoof feels warmer than usual. This could be an indication that something is wrong.

Every 6 to 8 weeks, you should have a trained farrier look over your horse's hooves. If you let too much time pass between each trimming/shoeing, the hooves become overgrown. This puts unnecessary strain on the tendons and joints.

Not all horses are in need of shoes, but if the horse is used a lot, it may be preferably to shoe it to avoid excessive wear and tear.

In the winter, if there is snow and ice on the ground, it might be a good idea to put studs on the horseshoes. A shoed horse without studs will slip more easily, which significantly increases the risk of injuries. You may even need studs in the summer, if you ride on a grass track, but remember that you may want to use overreach boots and other guards to protect the horse from overreach injuries.

Here's a tip

Use the website of the Swedish Farrier Association to look for a farrier in your county.

Hoof care

There is a saying that goes “no hooves – no horse”, and it's true! If you do not take care of your horse's hooves and make sure they are healthy, the rest of the horse will not work either.

You should look over your horse's hooves at least once a day. You should also check the hooves both before and after a ride/drive. Make it a habit to feel your horse's hooves so that you notice if one hoof feels warmer than usual. This could be an indication that something is wrong.

Every 6 to 8 weeks, you should have a trained farrier look over your horse's hooves. If you let too much time pass between each trimming/shoeing, the hooves become overgrown. This puts unnecessary strain on the tendons and joints.

Not all horses are in need of shoes, but if the horse is used a lot, it may be preferably to shoe it to avoid excessive wear and tear.

In the winter, if there is snow and ice on the ground, it might be a good idea to put studs on the horseshoes. A shoed horse without studs will slip more easily, which significantly increases the risk of injuries. You may even need studs in the summer, if you ride on a grass track, but remember that you may want to use overreach boots and other guards to protect the horse from overreach injuries.

Here's a tip

Use the website of the Swedish Farrier Association to look for a farrier in your county.

In addition to training and daily grooming, you must also spend time mucking out stables and keeping them and the paddock clean.

For the comfort of your horse, the air of the stables must be clean and fresh. This is one reason for why it is important to muck out the stalls and keeping the bedding clean.

There are different kinds of beds and bedding materials. If you employ complete muck-out, the bedding is laid with a thick layer of bedding that is cleaned from droppings and urine on a daily basis and replenished as needed.

If you instead opt for a deep litter, the bedding is often composed of a lime layer at the bottom, followed by a thick layer of compact bedding, usually straw, with a layer of loose straw on top. In this bed waste is allowed to sink to the bottom, and it is kept clean by adding new straw as you go. This bedding system is common in open stables, as it requires minimal maintenance. The bed is often changed completely after a year.

The most common bedding materials are straw, wood shavings, peat, wood pellets and straw pellets.  The most important aspect of choosing a bedding material is that it is of a good hygienic quality – it should smell good and be free from dust.

Mucking out the stables

In addition to training and daily grooming, you must also spend time mucking out stables and keeping them and the paddock clean.

For the comfort of your horse, the air of the stables must be clean and fresh. This is one reason for why it is important to muck out the stalls and keeping the bedding clean.

There are different kinds of beds and bedding materials. If you employ complete muck-out, the bedding is laid with a thick layer of bedding that is cleaned from droppings and urine on a daily basis and replenished as needed.

If you instead opt for a deep litter, the bedding is often composed of a lime layer at the bottom, followed by a thick layer of compact bedding, usually straw, with a layer of loose straw on top. In this bed waste is allowed to sink to the bottom, and it is kept clean by adding new straw as you go. This bedding system is common in open stables, as it requires minimal maintenance. The bed is often changed completely after a year.

The most common bedding materials are straw, wood shavings, peat, wood pellets and straw pellets.  The most important aspect of choosing a bedding material is that it is of a good hygienic quality – it should smell good and be free from dust.

Working the horse on a lunge line or long reins is a good way to prepare unbroken horses for riding. It is also an excellent complement to the daily exercise of a trained horse.

If you have never lunged or long-reined a horse, ask someone with experience to help and instruct you. Incorrect training may do more harm than good. Other than an experienced assistant, it may also be good to watch one of the many DVDs on the subject that are available on the market.

When you lunge the horse, you are working it on a line in a circle around you. You should be placed at the centre of the circle, and your arms should frame the horse in a V-shape, with you at the bottom. In one hand you hold the line, which leads to the horse's mouth, and in the other you hold the whip, which is used to drive the hind legs forwards. You mainly give commands and regulate the tempo using your voice, the whip can be used to reinforce the driving or steering commands.

Before you start lunging, you need to warm up your horse by leading it around for the same amount of time that you would warm it up before a riding session. Once you start the lunge, you can continue warming up with a trot before adding any auxiliary reins, see the separate list of reins that you can use.

If you do decide to rein in the horse – do it in two steps. This is of particular importance in order to reduce the risk of panic when you are working with young, sensitive horses. The reason for using side or draw reins is to help the horse find the right shape and balance during the session. Change directions so that the horse spends an equal amount of time working on each side.

When you are working with long reins, you use two reins and is thus able to control both sides of the horse, which means that it is easier to frame the horse in long-reining than in lunging. You can work the horse on a straight or curved line, and work on sideways movement. However, long-reining requires more practice and sensitivity than lunging. The impact of the reins here is so much stronger than that of the lunge line, or that of the reins when you are riding. Before you long-rein the horse, you warm up in the same way as before lunging.

Remember to use as few commands as possible, and be consistent. Both lunging and long-reining should be done in non-slippery conditions.

Suggested equipment for lunging:

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• Boots or wraps on all four legs
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• Saddle or lunging roller
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• Lunge pad
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• Possibly a crupper
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• Bridle or cavesson
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• Lunge line
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• Auxiliary reins (see below)
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Suggested equipment for long-reining:

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• Boots or wraps on all four legs
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• Long-reining roller
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• Lunge pad
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• Possibly a crupper
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• Bridle
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• Reins
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Suggested handler equipment for lunging and long-reining:

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• Helmet
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• Gloves
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• Lunge whip
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Suggested auxiliary reins and other lunging equipment:

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• Chambon
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• De Gogue
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• Training reins
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• Side reins Lunging rig that is intended to help the horse to step under and not place too much weight on the front legs.
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• Lunging aid, which replaces the lunging roller and auxiliary reins. Cotton cord that is placed around the back and between the front legs before being fastened in the bit rings.
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\\r\\n

Lunging a horse

Working the horse on a lunge line or long reins is a good way to prepare unbroken horses for riding. It is also an excellent complement to the daily exercise of a trained horse.

If you have never lunged or long-reined a horse, ask someone with experience to help and instruct you. Incorrect training may do more harm than good. Other than an experienced assistant, it may also be good to watch one of the many DVDs on the subject that are available on the market.

When you lunge the horse, you are working it on a line in a circle around you. You should be placed at the centre of the circle, and your arms should frame the horse in a V-shape, with you at the bottom. In one hand you hold the line, which leads to the horse's mouth, and in the other you hold the whip, which is used to drive the hind legs forwards. You mainly give commands and regulate the tempo using your voice, the whip can be used to reinforce the driving or steering commands.

Before you start lunging, you need to warm up your horse by leading it around for the same amount of time that you would warm it up before a riding session. Once you start the lunge, you can continue warming up with a trot before adding any auxiliary reins, see the separate list of reins that you can use.

If you do decide to rein in the horse – do it in two steps. This is of particular importance in order to reduce the risk of panic when you are working with young, sensitive horses. The reason for using side or draw reins is to help the horse find the right shape and balance during the session. Change directions so that the horse spends an equal amount of time working on each side.

When you are working with long reins, you use two reins and is thus able to control both sides of the horse, which means that it is easier to frame the horse in long-reining than in lunging. You can work the horse on a straight or curved line, and work on sideways movement. However, long-reining requires more practice and sensitivity than lunging. The impact of the reins here is so much stronger than that of the lunge line, or that of the reins when you are riding. Before you long-rein the horse, you warm up in the same way as before lunging.

Remember to use as few commands as possible, and be consistent. Both lunging and long-reining should be done in non-slippery conditions.

Suggested equipment for lunging:

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• Boots or wraps on all four legs
\\n
• Saddle or lunging roller
\\n
• Lunge pad
\\n
• Possibly a crupper
\\n
• Bridle or cavesson
\\n
• Lunge line
\\n
• Auxiliary reins (see below)
\\n

Suggested equipment for long-reining:

\\n
• Boots or wraps on all four legs
\\n
• Long-reining roller
\\n
• Lunge pad
\\n
• Possibly a crupper
\\n
• Bridle
\\n
• Reins
\\n

Suggested handler equipment for lunging and long-reining:

\\n
• Helmet
\\n
• Gloves
\\n
• Lunge whip
\\n

Suggested auxiliary reins and other lunging equipment:

\\n
• Chambon
\\n
• De Gogue
\\n
• Training reins
\\n
• Side reins Lunging rig that is intended to help the horse to step under and not place too much weight on the front legs.
\\n
• Lunging aid, which replaces the lunging roller and auxiliary reins. Cotton cord that is placed around the back and between the front legs before being fastened in the bit rings.
\\n

When you are travelling with your horse you may use either a horse trailer or a horsebox, and there are quite a few things to think about.

Before loading

Before you start loading, make sure that all the lights on the trailer are working and that all butt bars are set at the right height. The breast bar should come up to the top of the horse's chest, and the rear bar should be approximately level with the mid/lower section of the thigh.

You may want to prepare the horse by putting travel boots on its legs, or bandage them with padding, if the horse is used to this. Bandage all the way down over the hoof, or use boots that protect the coronary band and heal from overreach injuries. If needed, use a rug suitable to the temperature. It is important that the horse does not become overheated and starts to sweat. A leather headcollar is preferable during transport; not only because it is sturdier, but also because it is easier to cut off in the event of an accident where the horse is left hanging on the lead rein.

When loading

Make sure you have plenty of time so that you do not feel stressed. If you remain calm, the loading will always be much easier and quicker. If your horse is difficult to load, you may want to use a lead rein with a chain or put a bridle on. If your horse is difficult to load, get help from a person with experience! 

Once the horse has walked into the trailer, you close the butt bar behind it and close the ramp. You must never walk directly behind the ramp. If the horse throws itself backwards you could get crushed under the ramp. Once the ramp is closed, you can tie the horse up – never before. Always tie the horse to the hoop in the wall of the transport and not to the butt bar. This makes things easier in case the horse climbs over the bar and gets stuck.

Before you leave, make sure that the ramp and the handler door are both properly fastened.

During transport

It may be good for the horse to have a hay net/hay bag to eat from. If the weather is warm, or if the journey is long, you should stop every two hours to check on the horse. This is also a good time to give it water.

When you arrive, remember to park in a spot where you have enough room in the back to unload the horse. Open the handler door and check on the horse. Then open the ramp, but before opening the rear bar it is important to untie the horse and put on the bridle, if needed, after which the bar can be opened and you can back the horse out of the trailer.

The equipment that you should remember to wear for loading and unloading are gloves, and preferably a helmet and body protector. Avoid spurs on your shoes, as these can easily get caught or trip you in a difficult situation.

Horseboxes

In addition to the regular horse trailers that you pull after your car, there are now an increasing number of horseboxes on the market. They come in various sizes, from smaller trucks requiring a B-class driving licence, to large lorries that require a C-class licence. In general, horses will be more comfortable in a horsebox than in a trailer, as the horsebox will usually have a better suspension, drive more smoothly and give the horse more room. Even if you are transporting your horse in a horsebox, you should prepare and handle the horse in the same way as when you use a regular trailer. The regulations for transporting horses are the same regardless of whether you choose a trailer or a horsebox, see the Swedish Board of Agriculture website. 

Check the weight!

It is important to know the applicable load weights; what your car is allowed to tow, how much your transport can take on and which class licence you have, otherwise you may end up with some heavy fines. The unladen weight that is indicated in the vehicle registration certificate is not always accurate. It is the responsibility of the driver not to load too much weight and everything must be included in the calculation; not only the horse, but all equipment and feed must also be included.

Note

Remember that you must bring the horse's passport along for all transportation. 

Transporting your horse

When you are travelling with your horse you may use either a horse trailer or a horsebox, and there are quite a few things to think about.

Before loading

Before you start loading, make sure that all the lights on the trailer are working and that all butt bars are set at the right height. The breast bar should come up to the top of the horse's chest, and the rear bar should be approximately level with the mid/lower section of the thigh.

You may want to prepare the horse by putting travel boots on its legs, or bandage them with padding, if the horse is used to this. Bandage all the way down over the hoof, or use boots that protect the coronary band and heal from overreach injuries. If needed, use a rug suitable to the temperature. It is important that the horse does not become overheated and starts to sweat. A leather headcollar is preferable during transport; not only because it is sturdier, but also because it is easier to cut off in the event of an accident where the horse is left hanging on the lead rein.

When loading

Make sure you have plenty of time so that you do not feel stressed. If you remain calm, the loading will always be much easier and quicker. If your horse is difficult to load, you may want to use a lead rein with a chain or put a bridle on. If your horse is difficult to load, get help from a person with experience!

Once the horse has walked into the trailer, you close the butt bar behind it and close the ramp. You must never walk directly behind the ramp. If the horse throws itself backwards you could get crushed under the ramp. Once the ramp is closed, you can tie the horse up – never before. Always tie the horse to the hoop in the wall of the transport and not to the butt bar. This makes things easier in case the horse climbs over the bar and gets stuck.

Before you leave, make sure that the ramp and the handler door are both properly fastened.

During transport

It may be good for the horse to have a hay net/hay bag to eat from. If the weather is warm, or if the journey is long, you should stop every two hours to check on the horse. This is also a good time to give it water.

When you arrive, remember to park in a spot where you have enough room in the back to unload the horse. Open the handler door and check on the horse. Then open the ramp, but before opening the rear bar it is important to untie the horse and put on the bridle, if needed, after which the bar can be opened and you can back the horse out of the trailer.

The equipment that you should remember to wear for loading and unloading are gloves, and preferably a helmet and body protector. Avoid spurs on your shoes, as these can easily get caught or trip you in a difficult situation.

Horseboxes

In addition to the regular horse trailers that you pull after your car, there are now an increasing number of horseboxes on the market. They come in various sizes, from smaller trucks requiring a B-class driving licence, to large lorries that require a C-class licence. In general, horses will be more comfortable in a horsebox than in a trailer, as the horsebox will usually have a better suspension, drive more smoothly and give the horse more room. Even if you are transporting your horse in a horsebox, you should prepare and handle the horse in the same way as when you use a regular trailer. The regulations for transporting horses are the same regardless of whether you choose a trailer or a horsebox, see the Swedish Board of Agriculture website.

Check the weight!

It is important to know the applicable load weights; what your car is allowed to tow, how much your transport can take on and which class licence you have, otherwise you may end up with some heavy fines. The unladen weight that is indicated in the vehicle registration certificate is not always accurate. It is the responsibility of the driver not to load too much weight and everything must be included in the calculation; not only the horse, but all equipment and feed must also be included.

Note

Remember that you must bring the horse's passport along for all transportation.

Take good care of your equipment. This makes the equipment last longer and be more comfortable for both you and your horse. Make it a habit to wipe all equipment clean after each session, then it won't take you that long.

All leather equipment; saddle, bridle, headcollar, leg boots, riding boots, or shoes should be wiped clean from dirt with a slightly damp sponge and saddle soap. When needed, you should also apply leather conditioner or oil, to protect and condition the leather. It is also good to use a cover for your saddle, to keep it free from dust. All leather is best kept in a place that is dry and not too hot. Never dry damp leather over a heater as this will cause it to dry up and crack. 

Neoprene and synthetic leather leg boots can without problem be rinsed off with water after use.

Saddlecloth or numnahs should be brushed off after use, and be allowed to dry if they have been dampened. It is important to keep the saddlecloths/numnahs clean, and to wash them often – otherwise the horse could easily develop lumps on its back under the saddle.

Guide to cleaning a bridle

1) Start by completely taking the bridle apart 

3) Use a slightly dampened sponge and saddle soap to properly clean the leather. Remember not to use too much water. If you use a glycerine soap, you should instead dampen the soap and use a dry sponge.

4) Allow the leather to dry.

5) Apply leather conditioner or oil.

6) Polish the buckles and clean the edges of all holes.

7) Rinse and dry the bit.

8) Put the bridle back together.

How to take care of your equipment

Take good care of your equipment. This makes the equipment last longer and be more comfortable for both you and your horse. Make it a habit to wipe all equipment clean after each session, then it won't take you that long.

All leather equipment; saddle, bridle, headcollar, leg boots, riding boots, or shoes should be wiped clean from dirt with a slightly damp sponge and saddle soap. When needed, you should also apply leather conditioner or oil, to protect and condition the leather. It is also good to use a cover for your saddle, to keep it free from dust. All leather is best kept in a place that is dry and not too hot. Never dry damp leather over a heater as this will cause it to dry up and crack.

Neoprene and synthetic leather leg boots can without problem be rinsed off with water after use.

Saddlecloth or numnahs should be brushed off after use, and be allowed to dry if they have been dampened. It is important to keep the saddlecloths/numnahs clean, and to wash them often – otherwise the horse could easily develop lumps on its back under the saddle.

Guide to cleaning a bridle

1) Start by completely taking the bridle apart

3) Use a slightly dampened sponge and saddle soap to properly clean the leather. Remember not to use too much water. If you use a glycerine soap, you should instead dampen the soap and use a dry sponge.

4) Allow the leather to dry.

5) Apply leather conditioner or oil.

6) Polish the buckles and clean the edges of all holes.

7) Rinse and dry the bit.

8) Put the bridle back together.

See all our horse rugs here

It is entirely possible to keep horses outside without a rug even in the winter, if they are used to it and as long as they are healthy, can move around and have access to food and shelter if they are in loose housing around the clock. If these criteria are not met, your horse may for example be injured but still need to be in loose housing, you will perhaps need to cover it if the weather gets too bad.

If you keep the horse active enough in training to make it sweat, it may be a good idea to clip it and use a rug. There are different ways of clipping the horse; if you only clip under its neck there is no need to compensate with a rug, but if you on the other hand clip all or large parts of the body, you should apply a rug, inside and out.

Any rug that the horse wears for a longer period of time has to fit in terms of both model and size, and Hööks has a great selection to choose from. It is not comfortable for the horse to wear a rug that is too large or too deeply cut, causing it to slide back over the withers. A clipped horse is often more prone to chafing, so even if the rug fits well, it may lead to chafing on the chest. This can be solved by using a shoulder guard.

Rug quality

Rug quality is measured in deniers (D) and essentially the higher the denier number, the stronger the material. However, you should know that there are also differences in terms of material. Nylon is generally much stronger and more elastic than polyester, which may mean that a nylon rug with a lower denier number is as strong as a polyester rug with a higher denier number. If you keep several horses in the same paddock, you may want to get a rug in a good material with a high denier count, as it will then be able to withstand a bit of horseplay and mischief.

If the horse gets caught or steps on the rug, it may tear even the strongest of rugs. The best way to repair an outdoor rug is to cut off any loose threads, and thereafter glue a piece of fabric to the inside and possibly sew around the tear. You should sew as little as possible in waterproof rugs as the stitches perforate the fabric and may cause leakage.

Choosing the right rug and size

If you need a rug for when the horse is in the paddock, you should choose a turnout rug. Combination rugs can be used as a stable/travel/cooler rug. The cooler rug is used on damp horses (can also be placed underneath another rug). Other rugs will primarily be used as stable and travel rugs.

You select a size based on the length of the horse's back, from the withers to the root of the tail (see image).

When you are trying on the rug, remember to put a sheet or a thin rug underneath, closest to the horse. If the rug becomes dirty or otherwise looks used, we cannot take it back in case it does not fit.

How to measure

Different types of rugs

Stable rug

The stable rug is used to keep the horse warm inside the stable. This type of rug should not be used outside, as it is not waterproof. It is preferable if the rug has a plain surface layer as this makes it easier to clean. The inside of the rug may be made from nylon, cotton or fleece. They can also have linings of varying thickness. If, for example, your horse has a full clip and stands in a cold stable, you may need a rug lined with somewhere between 300 and 500 grams of filling to keep the horse warm.

Cooler rug

Cooler rugs are intended to wick moisture away from the horse's coat. Fleece and wool rugs are ideal for this purpose, as they allow the moisture to move though the fabric to the surface of the rug. These rugs are also suitable for travel, to ensure the horse stays dry even if it should start sweating during the journey.

Turnout rug

Turnout rugs come both with and without filling. When selecting a turnout rug, remember that it must not only withstand rain, but also has to allow perspiration. This is so that the rug does not end up sealing the horse's sweat from the inside.

Winter turnout rug

A winter turnout rug should have the same properties as the regular one, i.e., it should be waterproof and breathable, so that the horse stays warm and dry. In addition it should have a proper lining to protect the horse against the cold.

Insect/summer sheet

The insect/summer sheet protects the horse from irritating insects. There are also rugs with UV protections, for horses that are sensitive to the sun.

Most of these models can be supplemented with neck and belly pieces as needed.

Exercise sheet

Exercise sheets are available in a few different models, either with straps that you fasten to the girth of the saddle or which have a cut-out for the saddle and are fastened in front. The exercise sheet is used to keep the croup dry and warm, and it can be used when warming up and cooling down, or throughout the training session. They are available in a number of different materials; from fleece and wool to waterproof nylon with a warm lining. Many will also be fitted with reflective material, which is good when you ride outside.

How to waterproof your rugs

Wash according to the instructions and rinse out all detergent. Let it dry. Apply the waterproofing product and allow to set for around 12 hours. Note: The rug may darken somewhat when you waterproof it.

If snow settles and stays on the rug, even the waterproof, breathable rugs may get damp. During lasting rain showers, water will often get in through the neck line, and the rug may get damp around the edges. Worn and washed rugs may start leaking after a while. Apply waterproofing product to solve this problem. Do not wash your turnout rugs too often. Instead brush off the dirt when the rug is dry.

Rugs

See all our horse rugs here

It is entirely possible to keep horses outside without a rug even in the winter, if they are used to it and as long as they are healthy, can move around and have access to food and shelter if they are in loose housing around the clock. If these criteria are not met, your horse may for example be injured but still need to be in loose housing, you will perhaps need to cover it if the weather gets too bad.

If you keep the horse active enough in training to make it sweat, it may be a good idea to clip it and use a rug. There are different ways of clipping the horse; if you only clip under its neck there is no need to compensate with a rug, but if you on the other hand clip all or large parts of the body, you should apply a rug, inside and out.

Any rug that the horse wears for a longer period of time has to fit in terms of both model and size, and Hööks has a great selection to choose from. It is not comfortable for the horse to wear a rug that is too large or too deeply cut, causing it to slide back over the withers. A clipped horse is often more prone to chafing, so even if the rug fits well, it may lead to chafing on the chest. This can be solved by using a shoulder guard.

Rug quality

Rug quality is measured in deniers (D) and essentially the higher the denier number, the stronger the material. However, you should know that there are also differences in terms of material. Nylon is generally much stronger and more elastic than polyester, which may mean that a nylon rug with a lower denier number is as strong as a polyester rug with a higher denier number. If you keep several horses in the same paddock, you may want to get a rug in a good material with a high denier count, as it will then be able to withstand a bit of horseplay and mischief.

If the horse gets caught or steps on the rug, it may tear even the strongest of rugs. The best way to repair an outdoor rug is to cut off any loose threads, and thereafter glue a piece of fabric to the inside and possibly sew around the tear. You should sew as little as possible in waterproof rugs as the stitches perforate the fabric and may cause leakage.

Choosing the right rug and size

If you need a rug for when the horse is in the paddock, you should choose a turnout rug. Combination rugs can be used as a stable/travel/cooler rug. The cooler rug is used on damp horses (can also be placed underneath another rug). Other rugs will primarily be used as stable and travel rugs.

You select a size based on the length of the horse's back, from the withers to the root of the tail (see image).

When you are trying on the rug, remember to put a sheet or a thin rug underneath, closest to the horse. If the rug becomes dirty or otherwise looks used, we cannot take it back in case it does not fit.

How to measure

A/B-pony105 cmB/C-pony115 cmC/D-pony125 cmD-pony/Cob/Full135 cmFull145 cmX-Full155 cmXXFull165 cm

Different types of rugs

Stable rug

The stable rug is used to keep the horse warm inside the stable. This type of rug should not be used outside, as it is not waterproof. It is preferable if the rug has a plain surface layer as this makes it easier to clean. The inside of the rug may be made from nylon, cotton or fleece. They can also have linings of varying thickness. If, for example, your horse has a full clip and stands in a cold stable, you may need a rug lined with somewhere between 300 and 500 grams of filling to keep the horse warm.

Cooler rug

Cooler rugs are intended to wick moisture away from the horse's coat. Fleece and wool rugs are ideal for this purpose, as they allow the moisture to move though the fabric to the surface of the rug. These rugs are also suitable for travel, to ensure the horse stays dry even if it should start sweating during the journey.

Turnout rug

Turnout rugs come both with and without filling. When selecting a turnout rug, remember that it must not only withstand rain, but also has to allow perspiration. This is so that the rug does not end up sealing the horse's sweat from the inside.

Winter turnout rug

A winter turnout rug should have the same properties as the regular one, i.e., it should be waterproof and breathable, so that the horse stays warm and dry. In addition it should have a proper lining to protect the horse against the cold.

Insect/summer sheet

The insect/summer sheet protects the horse from irritating insects. There are also rugs with UV protections, for horses that are sensitive to the sun.

Most of these models can be supplemented with neck and belly pieces as needed.

Exercise sheet

Exercise sheets are available in a few different models, either with straps that you fasten to the girth of the saddle or which have a cut-out for the saddle and are fastened in front. The exercise sheet is used to keep the croup dry and warm, and it can be used when warming up and cooling down, or throughout the training session. They are available in a number of different materials; from fleece and wool to waterproof nylon with a warm lining. Many will also be fitted with reflective material, which is good when you ride outside.

How to waterproof your rugs

Wash according to the instructions and rinse out all detergent. Let it dry. Apply the waterproofing product and allow to set for around 12 hours. Note: The rug may darken somewhat when you waterproof it.

If snow settles and stays on the rug, even the waterproof, breathable rugs may get damp. During lasting rain showers, water will often get in through the neck line, and the rug may get damp around the edges. Worn and washed rugs may start leaking after a while. Apply waterproofing product to solve this problem. Do not wash your turnout rugs too often. Instead brush off the dirt when the rug is dry.

The bridle comes in a large number of different models. They are adapted to discipline and effect. Most bridles are made from leather, but there are also synthetic versions.

There are six different bridle sizes: mini, shetland, pony, cob, full and extra full. Ponies in section B and smaller ones in C can normally wear a pony bridle, while larger ponies in sections C and D can wear a cob. However, certain breeds of pony have very small noses and a wide forehead. If this is the case, you can buy the smaller size bridle along with a larger size browband.

The four most common types of noseband

The four most common types of noseband for an English bridle are the drop noseband, the plain/English cavesson, the flash noseband and the figure-eight noseband.

Drop noseband

The drop noseband is sometimes also referred to as a remont, after the old military designation for a young horse. It is an excellent choice for young horses, as it is fastened underneath the snaffle, which means it does not pinch any of the teeth that may be tender, for example, when changing over from the primary teeth.

This noseband is fairly lenient, as it does not need to be tightened very hard to prevent the horse from opening its mouth. It also works just as well on an adult horse.

Plain/English cavesson

The cavesson runs underneath the cheek pieces of the bridle, approximately two centimetres below the cheekbone. This is a simple noseband, which comes in thinner or slightly wider versions. When fastened correctly, you should be able to place two fingers between the nasal bone and the band. Never pull it tighter than this.

If you have a young horse (younger than six years old) it is important that you look out for chafing caused by the noseband on the inside of the cheek, in connection to teeth changes.

Flash noseband

The flash noseband is similar to the English cavesson, but it has an additional strap that you fasten underneath the snaffle to prevent the horse from opening its mouth.

When you fasten this noseband, it is important to start with the upper strap and then the lower, so that the noseband is not pulled downwards. The lower strap prevents the horse from opening its mouth.

Figure-eight noseband

 This noseband is suitable for a more energetic horse. It may also be a good fit for a young horse, since the straps do not cause pressure on the teeth in the same way that the cavesson and the flash do.

The figure-eight noseband consists of two straps that cross over on the nasal bone. The top strap should be placed a bit up the horse's cheek, and the lower one should lie just underneath the snaffle.

In later years, new models have been developed based on these four, but with a few extra details.

How to fit the bridle

The browband should lie flat against the forehead. It must not be too short, so that it pulls on and pinches the area behind the ears. You should be able to fit an open hand between the throatlatch and the horse's cheek, to ensure that the strap is not obstructing its breathing. The flash/cavesson should be placed around two fingers down from the horse's cheekbone to avoid chafing. It must not be placed too far down either, as this can cause pinching between the snaffle and the noseband. You should be able to fit two fingers under the noseband.

Bitless bridles

There are also bitless bridles where the piece that looks like the noseband has straps for fastening the reins. These straps cross over under the chin/cheek. When you pull on the rein, it creates pressure on the opposite cheek piece, which allows you to steer the horse as it moves away from the pressure.

Sidepull bridle

The sidepull is a bitless bridle that guides the horse through pressure on the nasal bone and cheek pieces. The sidepull allows for better neck control compared to the hackamore.

Double bridle

The double bridle is primarily used in dressage. This bridle has double cheek pieces, to allow you to fasten a bradoon bit as well as a curb bit. It is usually combined with an English cavesson. This bridle requires double reins.

Choice of reins

The choice of reins is normally a matter of taste. There are reins completely make from leather, with or without stops, laced or plain. There are also leather reins with one part made from rubber to provide the best possible grip. The most common rein is probably the rubber weave reins with stops. When you select your reins, you should test and compare a great variety to find the one that fits your hand best. If you are jumping or riding in rough terrain, reins with a good grip, such as a rubber rein or one with many stops, will be preferable. If you do more dressage, you may want a completely smooth leather rein or one with very small stops.

Browband

The browband is the jewel of the bridle. There is a great variety of choice; from completely plain and discrete to generously decorated ones with beads and bling. It is important to ensure that the browband is not too short, which causes it to pull the head and cheek pieces forward and causes discomfort as well as chafing and pressure on the horse's ears.

Icelandic bridle

The bridle for an Icelandic horse will normally consist of a headpiece, cheek pieces and a noseband. Many opt out of using a browband, and the Icelandic bridle rarely has a throatlock. The nosebands are often drop models, but more and more flash nosebands for Icelandic horses have appeared. The reins are most often fastened to the snaffle with snap hook.

Western

Western bridles often have plenty of decorations and hardly ever use a noseband. If, on the other hand, you are using a sidepull, there is no bit, but the horse is steered and controlled through pressure on the nasal bone and sides of the face.

The bridle explained

The bridle comes in a large number of different models. They are adapted to discipline and effect. Most bridles are made from leather, but there are also synthetic versions.

There are six different bridle sizes: mini, shetland, pony, cob, full and extra full. Ponies in section B and smaller ones in C can normally wear a pony bridle, while larger ponies in sections C and D can wear a cob. However, certain breeds of pony have very small noses and a wide forehead. If this is the case, you can buy the smaller size bridle along with a larger size browband.

The four most common types of noseband

The four most common types of noseband for an English bridle are the drop noseband, the plain/English cavesson, the flash noseband and the figure-eight noseband.

Drop noseband

The drop noseband is sometimes also referred to as a remont, after the old military designation for a young horse. It is an excellent choice for young horses, as it is fastened underneath the snaffle, which means it does not pinch any of the teeth that may be tender, for example, when changing over from the primary teeth.

This noseband is fairly lenient, as it does not need to be tightened very hard to prevent the horse from opening its mouth. It also works just as well on an adult horse.

Plain/English cavesson

The cavesson runs underneath the cheek pieces of the bridle, approximately two centimetres below the cheekbone. This is a simple noseband, which comes in thinner or slightly wider versions. When fastened correctly, you should be able to place two fingers between the nasal bone and the band. Never pull it tighter than this.

If you have a young horse (younger than six years old) it is important that you look out for chafing caused by the noseband on the inside of the cheek, in connection to teeth changes.

Flash noseband

The flash noseband is similar to the English cavesson, but it has an additional strap that you fasten underneath the snaffle to prevent the horse from opening its mouth.

When you fasten this noseband, it is important to start with the upper strap and then the lower, so that the noseband is not pulled downwards. The lower strap prevents the horse from opening its mouth.

Figure-eight noseband

This noseband is suitable for a more energetic horse. It may also be a good fit for a young horse, since the straps do not cause pressure on the teeth in the same way that the cavesson and the flash do.

The figure-eight noseband consists of two straps that cross over on the nasal bone. The top strap should be placed a bit up the horse's cheek, and the lower one should lie just underneath the snaffle.

In later years, new models have been developed based on these four, but with a few extra details.

How to fit the bridle

The browband should lie flat against the forehead. It must not be too short, so that it pulls on and pinches the area behind the ears. You should be able to fit an open hand between the throatlatch and the horse's cheek, to ensure that the strap is not obstructing its breathing. The flash/cavesson should be placed around two fingers down from the horse's cheekbone to avoid chafing. It must not be placed too far down either, as this can cause pinching between the snaffle and the noseband. You should be able to fit two fingers under the noseband.

Bitless bridles

There are also bitless bridles where the piece that looks like the noseband has straps for fastening the reins. These straps cross over under the chin/cheek. When you pull on the rein, it creates pressure on the opposite cheek piece, which allows you to steer the horse as it moves away from the pressure.

Sidepull bridle

The sidepull is a bitless bridle that guides the horse through pressure on the nasal bone and cheek pieces. The sidepull allows for better neck control compared to the hackamore.

Double bridle

The double bridle is primarily used in dressage. This bridle has double cheek pieces, to allow you to fasten a bradoon bit as well as a curb bit. It is usually combined with an English cavesson. This bridle requires double reins.

Choice of reins

The choice of reins is normally a matter of taste. There are reins completely make from leather, with or without stops, laced or plain. There are also leather reins with one part made from rubber to provide the best possible grip. The most common rein is probably the rubber weave reins with stops. When you select your reins, you should test and compare a great variety to find the one that fits your hand best. If you are jumping or riding in rough terrain, reins with a good grip, such as a rubber rein or one with many stops, will be preferable. If you do more dressage, you may want a completely smooth leather rein or one with very small stops.

Browband

The browband is the jewel of the bridle. There is a great variety of choice; from completely plain and discrete to generously decorated ones with beads and bling. It is important to ensure that the browband is not too short, which causes it to pull the head and cheek pieces forward and causes discomfort as well as chafing and pressure on the horse's ears.

Icelandic bridle

The bridle for an Icelandic horse will normally consist of a headpiece, cheek pieces and a noseband. Many opt out of using a browband, and the Icelandic bridle rarely has a throatlock. The nosebands are often drop models, but more and more flash nosebands for Icelandic horses have appeared. The reins are most often fastened to the snaffle with snap hook.

Western

Western bridles often have plenty of decorations and hardly ever use a noseband. If, on the other hand, you are using a sidepull, there is no bit, but the horse is steered and controlled through pressure on the nasal bone and sides of the face.

There are a great number of different bits, and finding the right one is not always easy – you have to work with trial and error until you find the one that suits you and your horse.

In general, the aim should be to use the mildest bit possible. The smother the bit, the milder it usually is. A jointed loose-ring bit is usually considered the mildest bit, as the horse is able to soften its effect by pressing the bit upwards with its tongue. Most bits are made from metal, but there are bits where the actual mouthpiece is made from rubber, and there are also leather models. These are usually appropriate for a more sensitive horse. Remember that the sharpness of any bit is ultimately decided by the person holding the reins!

The right size bit

It is important to adjust the bit to a size that fits your horse. The mouth of the horse is not designed to hold a bit, so remember not to use one that is too thick or too heavy, as this can lead to strain injuries in the mouth.

Even if the bit should not be too heavy, solid bits are preferable to hollow ones. A solid bit will lie more firmly in the mouth of the horse, while a hollow bit may feel too light and therefore less clear, as it can move around the mouth more.

Different types of bits

Loose-ring, eggbutt and D-ring snaffles

Unjointed snaffle, lies steadily in the mouth and does not easily cause damage.  Some horses may feel a little front-heavy on this bit.

A single-jointed snaffle is one of the most common bits; it is important that the bit is not too long, as it can then press against the roof of the mouth.

Double-jointed snaffles. Correctly sized, this bit will lie comfortably in the horse's mouth. Some feel that it adds sharpness. Here too, it is important that the bit is not too long, as it can cause pinching damage.

All these models are available as loose-ring bits or eggbutt bits. The eggbutt distributes pressure evenly in the corner of the mouth and reduces the risk of pinching.

Lifter bit

This bit moves the entire mouthpiece up and down as you pull on the reins, and also affects the horse's neck.

Pessoa bit

Pessoa bits are available in single or double-jointed versions, and with two or three rings. The further down you attach the rein, the more effect you will get. This bit can also be used with a bit converter. Used with some caution and only by experienced riders.

Gag bits

Gag bits have special side pieces that run through the bit rings, and the reins are attached to these. Gags should be used with two pairs of reins.

Curb bits

These become sharper the longer the cheek pieces are, and the further down you attach the reins. For this type of bit you also use a curb chain. When fastened, it should allow the cheek pieces of the bit to move about 30 per cent in either direction.

Pelham bit

Pelham bits are available in unjointed, single-jointed or double-jointed versions. The cheek pieces of this bit are not that long, which makes it a relatively mild curb bit. This bit should be used with a curb chain, a lip strap and a bit converter.

Kimblewick bit

The Kimblewick bit is available both as a jointed bit and as a curb bit with a port and short cheek pieces. This bit requires a curb chain, but no bit converter is required. You can choose where to place the rein; in the larger ring or in one of the smaller slots.

Double bridle

When riding with a double bridle, you use two bits: the bradoon bit (single or double-jointed snaffle) and the curb bit, with or without a port. The port is the arch in the curb bit, which may be larger or smaller. The larger the port, the sharper the bit. The curb bit is used with a curb chain, and preferably a lip strap as well. This form of bridle requires two sets of reins; one for the bradoon and one for the curb bit.

Hackamore

The Hackamore uses pressure on the nose to influence the horse. This is a good complement to your regular bridle, to give the horse's mouth a rest from the strain of the bit. It can also be a good alternative if your horse gets a sore in its mouth or if it is tender due to tooth loss etc. It is important to remember that it puts a high pressure on the horse's nose, and it should therefore be used with great care.

There are also combination bridles that combine a regular snaffle with a hackamore, however, these solutions also require a lot of experience and care.

Bits

There are a great number of different bits, and finding the right one is not always easy – you have to work with trial and error until you find the one that suits you and your horse.

In general, the aim should be to use the mildest bit possible. The smother the bit, the milder it usually is. A jointed loose-ring bit is usually considered the mildest bit, as the horse is able to soften its effect by pressing the bit upwards with its tongue. Most bits are made from metal, but there are bits where the actual mouthpiece is made from rubber, and there are also leather models. These are usually appropriate for a more sensitive horse. Remember that the sharpness of any bit is ultimately decided by the person holding the reins!

The right size bit

It is important to adjust the bit to a size that fits your horse. The mouth of the horse is not designed to hold a bit, so remember not to use one that is too thick or too heavy, as this can lead to strain injuries in the mouth.

Even if the bit should not be too heavy, solid bits are preferable to hollow ones. A solid bit will lie more firmly in the mouth of the horse, while a hollow bit may feel too light and therefore less clear, as it can move around the mouth more.

Different types of bits

Loose-ring, eggbutt and D-ring snaffles

\\n
• Unjointed snaffle, lies steadily in the mouth and does not easily cause damage.  Some horses may feel a little front-heavy on this bit.
\\n
• A single-jointed snaffle is one of the most common bits; it is important that the bit is not too long, as it can then press against the roof of the mouth.
\\n
• Double-jointed snaffles. Correctly sized, this bit will lie comfortably in the horse's mouth. Some feel that it adds sharpness. Here too, it is important that the bit is not too long, as it can cause pinching damage.
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All these models are available as loose-ring bits or eggbutt bits. The eggbutt distributes pressure evenly in the corner of the mouth and reduces the risk of pinching.

Lifter bit

This bit moves the entire mouthpiece up and down as you pull on the reins, and also affects the horse's neck.

Pessoa bit

Pessoa bits are available in single or double-jointed versions, and with two or three rings. The further down you attach the rein, the more effect you will get. This bit can also be used with a bit converter. Used with some caution and only by experienced riders.

Gag bits

Gag bits have special side pieces that run through the bit rings, and the reins are attached to these. Gags should be used with two pairs of reins.

Curb bits

These become sharper the longer the cheek pieces are, and the further down you attach the reins. For this type of bit you also use a curb chain. When fastened, it should allow the cheek pieces of the bit to move about 30 per cent in either direction.

Pelham bit

Pelham bits are available in unjointed, single-jointed or double-jointed versions. The cheek pieces of this bit are not that long, which makes it a relatively mild curb bit. This bit should be used with a curb chain, a lip strap and a bit converter.

Kimblewick bit

The Kimblewick bit is available both as a jointed bit and as a curb bit with a port and short cheek pieces. This bit requires a curb chain, but no bit converter is required. You can choose where to place the rein; in the larger ring or in one of the smaller slots.

Double bridle

When riding with a double bridle, you use two bits: the bradoon bit (single or double-jointed snaffle) and the curb bit, with or without a port. The port is the arch in the curb bit, which may be larger or smaller. The larger the port, the sharper the bit. The curb bit is used with a curb chain, and preferably a lip strap as well. This form of bridle requires two sets of reins; one for the bradoon and one for the curb bit.

Hackamore

The Hackamore uses pressure on the nose to influence the horse. This is a good complement to your regular bridle, to give the horse's mouth a rest from the strain of the bit. It can also be a good alternative if your horse gets a sore in its mouth or if it is tender due to tooth loss etc. It is important to remember that it puts a high pressure on the horse's nose, and it should therefore be used with great care.

There are also combination bridles that combine a regular snaffle with a hackamore, however, these solutions also require a lot of experience and care.

The saddle is one of the primary tools of the rider. There are many different models intended for different purposes.

The saddle should help the rider achieve a good position on the back of the horse, so that the rider is able to correctly apply their aids (weight, seat and legs). The saddle should also distribute the rider's weight effectively, to allow the horse to maintain its natural balance.

Saddles are constructed in a few different ways. The core of the saddle – the tree – can be made from plain wood, or wood reinforced with steel or fiberglass. The padding may consist of wool, foam rubber or air. The outer material is either leather or synthetic. There are also treeless saddles. Depending on what discipline you focus on, there are saddles made especially for each purpose.

Jump saddle

Primarily used for jumping, but also for cross-country. The saddle will have a short and forward-cut flap to support the rider's knee. There are multiple models of the jump saddle. Some have a flat seat, others are deeper. There are models with rolls to support both the knee and the calf, and some rolls are be adjustable so that you can customise your saddle.

Dressage saddle

The flaps of the dressage saddle are long and straight, and the seat is often deeper to allow the rider to sink down properly in the saddle to influence the horse with their seat more easily. The dressage saddle may also be fitted with knee rolls to provide good support for the rider's legs.

General purpose saddle

As the name indicates, this saddle can be used for a number of different purposes. You can use it in both dressage and jumping, and it is built to suit mixed riding. 

Icelandic saddle

The Icelandic saddle is adapted to the anatomy of the Icelandic horse, which for example means that the seat cannot be too long, as the Icelandic horse has a relatively short back. The saddle is similar to the dressage saddle in that it has relatively long and straight flaps.

Western saddle

There are a few different models of the Western saddle, which are all adapted to suit the different Western disciplines, such as trail, pleasure, reining and cutting.

There are also special saddles for racing, monté trot, side saddles, academic art of riding and handicap saddles.

Accessories

Girths are used to fasten the saddle. These are made in various designs and materials. In later years, more and more girths have been developed to distribute pressure as evenly as possible across the sternum. Most girths are fitted with elastics in order not to be static, but instead be able to expand along with the horse's thorax.

Stirrup leathers should preferably be made from the same material as the saddle, i.e., leather for leather, and synthetics for synthetics.

Stirrups are available in stainless steel, iron, aluminium, plastic and wood. Many stirrups are designed for optimal safety, in order to reduce the risk of your foot getting caught in the stirrup if you should fall. Certain stirrups are also customised for the different disciplines, and most commonly for jumping 

Numnahs and saddlecloths refer to the pieces of fabric or leather that you place underneath the saddle, closest to the horse's back. Their main purpose is to protect the saddle from sweat and dust, but some models also help distribute the pressure of the saddle evenly. The numnah is cut after the shape of the saddle, and are available as general-purpose or dressage models. A saddlecloth is cut in a more rectangular shape, and are also available as general-purpose or dressage models.

The numnahs and saddlecloths are often available in two sizes: pony and full. If you have a saddle that is 16\\\" or larger, you should choose the full size even if the saddle is for a pony. Icelandic saddles can be used with dressage numnahs and saddlecloths. Underneath a Western saddle you put a saddle blanket or saddle pad.

Saddle variations

The saddle is one of the primary tools of the rider. There are many different models intended for different purposes.

The saddle should help the rider achieve a good position on the back of the horse, so that the rider is able to correctly apply their aids (weight, seat and legs). The saddle should also distribute the rider's weight effectively, to allow the horse to maintain its natural balance.

Saddles are constructed in a few different ways. The core of the saddle – the tree – can be made from plain wood, or wood reinforced with steel or fiberglass. The padding may consist of wool, foam rubber or air. The outer material is either leather or synthetic. There are also treeless saddles. Depending on what discipline you focus on, there are saddles made especially for each purpose.

Jump saddle

Primarily used for jumping, but also for cross-country. The saddle will have a short and forward-cut flap to support the rider's knee. There are multiple models of the jump saddle. Some have a flat seat, others are deeper. There are models with rolls to support both the knee and the calf, and some rolls are be adjustable so that you can customise your saddle.

Dressage saddle

The flaps of the dressage saddle are long and straight, and the seat is often deeper to allow the rider to sink down properly in the saddle to influence the horse with their seat more easily. The dressage saddle may also be fitted with knee rolls to provide good support for the rider's legs.

General purpose saddle

As the name indicates, this saddle can be used for a number of different purposes. You can use it in both dressage and jumping, and it is built to suit mixed riding.

Icelandic saddle

The Icelandic saddle is adapted to the anatomy of the Icelandic horse, which for example means that the seat cannot be too long, as the Icelandic horse has a relatively short back. The saddle is similar to the dressage saddle in that it has relatively long and straight flaps.

Western saddle

There are a few different models of the Western saddle, which are all adapted to suit the different Western disciplines, such as trail, pleasure, reining and cutting.

There are also special saddles for racing, monté trot, side saddles, academic art of riding and handicap saddles.

Accessories

Girths are used to fasten the saddle. These are made in various designs and materials. In later years, more and more girths have been developed to distribute pressure as evenly as possible across the sternum. Most girths are fitted with elastics in order not to be static, but instead be able to expand along with the horse's thorax.

Stirrup leathers should preferably be made from the same material as the saddle, i.e., leather for leather, and synthetics for synthetics.

Stirrups are available in stainless steel, iron, aluminium, plastic and wood. Many stirrups are designed for optimal safety, in order to reduce the risk of your foot getting caught in the stirrup if you should fall. Certain stirrups are also customised for the different disciplines, and most commonly for jumping.

Numnahs and saddlecloths refer to the pieces of fabric or leather that you place underneath the saddle, closest to the horse's back. Their main purpose is to protect the saddle from sweat and dust, but some models also help distribute the pressure of the saddle evenly. The numnah is cut after the shape of the saddle, and are available as general-purpose or dressage models. A saddlecloth is cut in a more rectangular shape, and are also available as general-purpose or dressage models.

The numnahs and saddlecloths are often available in two sizes: pony and full. If you have a saddle that is 16\\\" or larger, you should choose the full size even if the saddle is for a pony. Icelandic saddles can be used with dressage numnahs and saddlecloths. Underneath a Western saddle you put a saddle blanket or saddle pad.

Using reflectors is a very cheap form of life insurance. Even at dusk, the chances of a pedestrian or rider who is not using reflectors being detected is drastically reduced.

In the dark, a driver will only become aware of you when they are 20 to 30 metres away. This distance increases to 100–125 metres if you are wearing reflectors. This can be the difference between life and death.

Bear in mind that you are even harder to see when the road surface is wet or it is raining or snowing.

There are no legal requirements that stipulate the use of reflectors on you or the horse when you are out riding. If you are driving, there has to be a lamp with a white light shining forward and red light shining back, as well as orange reflectors at the sides and two red reflectors at the back.

Tests have shown that moving reflectors placed at low level are noticed best. Therefore, the best place to put reflectors is on the horse's legs and the more reflectors you have the better. Don't forget yourself, you should also wear reflectors. Because the larger the reflexive surface, the better you can be seen!

It is also a good idea for horses in the paddock to have reflectors on their rugs and/or halters. The risk of an accident is thus minimised should the horses break out of their paddock when it is dark.

Suggested reflectors to use when riding on the public roads:

\\r\\n
• Leg reflectors, at least two, but preferably four – very visible all around.
\\r\\n
• Exercise rugs with reflectors – good visibility from the back and the side.
\\r\\n
• Reflective martingale – very visible from the front and the side.
\\r\\n
• As a minimum, the rider should have a reflective vest and preferably a head torch.
\\r\\n

It is important to remember that the lifespan of a reflector is about three years. Replace damaged reflectors, sand and gravel, for example, shorten their lifespan. You can test whether reflectors work by hanging them up next to a new reflector in a dark room and shining a light on them from about four metres away. If the old reflectors are noticeably worse than the new one, it's time to replace them. 

Reflectors

Using reflectors is a very cheap form of life insurance. Even at dusk, the chances of a pedestrian or rider who is not using reflectors being detected is drastically reduced.

In the dark, a driver will only become aware of you when they are 20 to 30 metres away. This distance increases to 100–125 metres if you are wearing reflectors. This can be the difference between life and death.

Bear in mind that you are even harder to see when the road surface is wet or it is raining or snowing.

There are no legal requirements that stipulate the use of reflectors on you or the horse when you are out riding. If you are driving, there has to be a lamp with a white light shining forward and red light shining back, as well as orange reflectors at the sides and two red reflectors at the back.

Tests have shown that moving reflectors placed at low level are noticed best. Therefore, the best place to put reflectors is on the horse's legs and the more reflectors you have the better. Don't forget yourself, you should also wear reflectors. Because the larger the reflexive surface, the better you can be seen!

It is also a good idea for horses in the paddock to have reflectors on their rugs and/or halters. The risk of an accident is thus minimised should the horses break out of their paddock when it is dark.

Suggested reflectors to use when riding on the public roads:

\\n
• Leg reflectors, at least two, but preferably four – very visible all around.
\\n
• Exercise rugs with reflectors – good visibility from the back and the side.
\\n
• Reflective martingale – very visible from the front and the side.
\\n
• As a minimum, the rider should have a reflective vest and preferably a head torch.
\\n

It is important to remember that the lifespan of a reflector is about three years. Replace damaged reflectors, sand and gravel, for example, shorten their lifespan. You can test whether reflectors work by hanging them up next to a new reflector in a dark room and shining a light on them from about four metres away. If the old reflectors are noticeably worse than the new one, it's time to replace them.

Sometimes we need a little extra help, and in those cases a few auxiliary reins might come in handy.

The most important thing to remember when first trying auxiliary reins is to get help from someone with experience.

Using them incorrectly may do more harm than good. Also remember that an auxiliary rein is most often to be considered a temporary aid to move forward in your training, not as a permanent part of your tack. Most auxiliary reins are intended to make the horse curve its neck, raise its back and to step under itself. When the horse is stepping correctly, the auxiliary rein should have no effect. It is therefore important that the auxiliary reins are not too short and/or too tight. 

Martingale

The running martingale is used for horses that throw their heads up or carry them very high. There are simple martingales, and then there are others, which are combined with a breast girth or a breast plate. The breast girth and the breast plate are both used to stop the saddle from sliding backwards, which can happen on some horses.

When you are fitting the martingale, you attach the breast strap to the girth of the saddle and then pull it between the front legs; the two hoops should be roughly level with the horse's point of hip, however, this point of reference may vary from horse to horse. Once you are riding on a short rein, your martingale is the right length if there is a straight line from your hand to the horse's mouth. Otherwise you need to adjust the length until you get a straight line. It is important that your use reins with martingale stops, which are to be placed between the snaffle ring and the martingale hoop. This is to prevent the hoop from gliding forwards and getting stuck on the rein buckle, which could cause the horse to fall.

Draw reins

Draw reins are used during riding, and is an auxiliary rein that should be used with great caution. Correctly used, they will help the horse to carry itself correctly. Most often they will be fastened in the girth and run through the front legs, however, it is also possible to fasten them to the sides of the girth, below the saddle. The reins are then pulled through the snaffle rings to the hands. You then hold the reins the same way as you would with a double bridle (two sets of reins).

Training reins

Training reins can be used both for lunging and riding. They are elastic, and easier to use than draw reins. Once they are fastened in the girth they can either run between the front legs or along the sides. It is important not to hold them too tightly, the effect should stop once the horse carries itself correctly. 

Thiedemann reins

The Thiedemann is similar to draw reins, but the rider only has to hold a single set of reins.  It is fastened in a fashion similar to the martingale. Two reins then run through the snaffle rings and are fastened with snap hooks to the special reins that come with the set.

De Gogue

A De Gouge can be used for both riding and lunging. It places pressure on the horse's neck to make it flex forward and downwards. You fasten the De Gouge to the girth and run it between the front legs. You then pull the lines through the hoops of the special neck piece, which is attached to the bridle, down through the snaffle rings and then back to the strap fastened to the girth.

Chambon

The Chambon is used for lunging. It has the same effect on the horse as the De Gouge, i.e., it puts pressure on the neck to extend forwards and downwards. You fasten the Chambon to the girth and run it between the front legs. The line then runs through the hoops of the special neck piece, which is attached to the bridle, and is fastened to the snaffle rings.

Side reins

There are many different versions of the side reins. They are most commonly used in lunging. At the start of the training session, you can keep them slightly looser/longer, and then shorten them a little later. It is also important to keep them the same length on each side.

Anti-grazing reins

Anti-grazing reins is a good aid, especially if you have a gluttonous or mischievous pony that likes to throw its head down to lose its rider. These reins are fastened to the saddle, runs through the hoops of the special headpiece attached to the bridle, and down to the snaffle rings.

Auxiliary reins

Sometimes we need a little extra help, and in those cases a few auxiliary reins might come in handy.

The most important thing to remember when first trying auxiliary reins is to get help from someone with experience.

Using them incorrectly may do more harm than good. Also remember that an auxiliary rein is most often to be considered a temporary aid to move forward in your training, not as a permanent part of your tack. Most auxiliary reins are intended to make the horse curve its neck, raise its back and to step under itself. When the horse is stepping correctly, the auxiliary rein should have no effect. It is therefore important that the auxiliary reins are not too short and/or too tight.

Martingale

The running martingale is used for horses that throw their heads up or carry them very high. There are simple martingales, and then there are others, which are combined with a breast girth or a breast plate. The breast girth and the breast plate are both used to stop the saddle from sliding backwards, which can happen on some horses.

When you are fitting the martingale, you attach the breast strap to the girth of the saddle and then pull it between the front legs; the two hoops should be roughly level with the horse's point of hip, however, this point of reference may vary from horse to horse. Once you are riding on a short rein, your martingale is the right length if there is a straight line from your hand to the horse's mouth. Otherwise you need to adjust the length until you get a straight line. It is important that your use reins with martingale stops, which are to be placed between the snaffle ring and the martingale hoop. This is to prevent the hoop from gliding forwards and getting stuck on the rein buckle, which could cause the horse to fall.

Draw reins

Draw reins are used during riding, and is an auxiliary rein that should be used with great caution. Correctly used, they will help the horse to carry itself correctly. Most often they will be fastened in the girth and run through the front legs, however, it is also possible to fasten them to the sides of the girth, below the saddle. The reins are then pulled through the snaffle rings to the hands. You then hold the reins the same way as you would with a double bridle (two sets of reins).

Training reins

Training reins can be used both for lunging and riding. They are elastic, and easier to use than draw reins. Once they are fastened in the girth they can either run between the front legs or along the sides. It is important not to hold them too tightly, the effect should stop once the horse carries itself correctly.

Thiedemann reins

The Thiedemann is similar to draw reins, but the rider only has to hold a single set of reins.  It is fastened in a fashion similar to the martingale. Two reins then run through the snaffle rings and are fastened with snap hooks to the special reins that come with the set.

De Gogue

A De Gouge can be used for both riding and lunging. It places pressure on the horse's neck to make it flex forward and downwards. You fasten the De Gouge to the girth and run it between the front legs. You then pull the lines through the hoops of the special neck piece, which is attached to the bridle, down through the snaffle rings and then back to the strap fastened to the girth.

Chambon

The Chambon is used for lunging. It has the same effect on the horse as the De Gouge, i.e., it puts pressure on the neck to extend forwards and downwards. You fasten the Chambon to the girth and run it between the front legs. The line then runs through the hoops of the special neck piece, which is attached to the bridle, and is fastened to the snaffle rings.

Side reins

There are many different versions of the side reins. They are most commonly used in lunging. At the start of the training session, you can keep them slightly looser/longer, and then shorten them a little later. It is also important to keep them the same length on each side.

Anti-grazing reins

Anti-grazing reins is a good aid, especially if you have a gluttonous or mischievous pony that likes to throw its head down to lose its rider. These reins are fastened to the saddle, runs through the hoops of the special headpiece attached to the bridle, and down to the snaffle rings.

There is a myriad of different forms of leg protection for your horse. When should they be used, and do you always need leg boots? Here are some answers.

What are the boots used for? Horses move in different ways, they are trained and used within different disciplines. You simply need to find out what your horse needs. Leg boots can be a cheap form of insurance against avoidable injuries during riding, driving or when the horse is out in the paddock. If you practice jumping, it is a good idea to protect the tendons of the front legs against blows, as these are particularly exposed to a great deal of strain in jumping. Even if the boots may help and protect your horse, training is still important to make it strong and give it stamina. One way of strengthening your horse is to train on varying surfaces.

The most common materials used in leg boots are leather, synthetic leather and neoprene with plastic covering. Most will be fastened with Velcro.

Brushing boots

Brushing boots protect the horse's legs when they brush against one another. They may be made from neoprene and will often be reinforced with a harder shell on the inside of the leg. The front-leg boots are somewhat lower than the hind-leg boots.

Tendon boots

Tendon boots are primarily used for jumping, but may also be used during regular arena exercises.

The main purpose of the tendon boots is to protect the flexor tendons of the front legs against blows. These boots are fully open in front and the fastenings are often slightly elastic. It is important that the horse does not wear these boots for too long as the elastic fastenings may affect the blood circulation in front of the tibia. Tendon boots are normally lined with shock-absorbing neoprene. There are also boots that are lined with wool, which are extra soft and prevent chafing. The back of the boots, down over the fetlock usually have a hard plastic casing, but there are also Kevlar versions.

Fetlock boots

Fetlock boots, for the hind legs, are shorter and only protect the fetlock. There is also something called jumping boots, which are slightly higher and intended to make the horse “open up” its hind legs more during jumping. When you compete, it is important to carefully read the competition rules in advance to find out what regulations apply to the use of leg boots.

Splint boots

Splint boots are mainly used in dressage and regular arena exercise to protect against blows.  The splint boots are high and soft, and cover the whole lower leg, sometimes including all of the fetlock. The material is most often neoprene with Velcro fastenings.

Overreach (bell) boots

Overreach boots are used to protect the horse from injuring itself by overreaching. They can be used for all forms of riding, driving and transportation. The overreach boots can be made in rubber, synthetic leather or neoprene. Rubber boots may lead to chafing in some horses. One way to prevent this is to put regular baby powder on the inside of the boots before putting them on.

Leg bandages

Leg bandages also provide protection. If the horse is wearing fully elastic bandages, you must put padding underneath, otherwise there is a great risk of bandaging too tightly, which can damage the tendons. There are also combination bandages, or exercise bandages, where the first half of the bandage is fleece (the part that ends up closest to the horse's leg) and the other half is elastic. When you use this type of bandage, no padding is needed.

Bandaging a horse's legs is an art form in itself, which requires a lot of practice. The leg should look completely smooth when the bandage is on, and it should reach all the way down over the fetlock.

Stable bandages

Stable bandages should not be used during training, but only when the horse is standing in a stable. They are often made from fleece, and are used in combination with padding. There are also ready-made stable wraps, which consist of thick padding with Velcro fastenings.

Stable bandages can be put on after hard work, or for horses that tend to swell up in the legs overnight.

If a horse has injured a leg, and needs bandaging for that reason, you should always bandage the other leg as well. This is done to support the healthy leg, which is otherwise easily overstrained as the horse tries to keep off the injured leg.

Leg boots

There is a myriad of different forms of leg protection for your horse. When should they be used, and do you always need leg boots? Here are some answers.

What are the boots used for? Horses move in different ways, they are trained and used within different disciplines. You simply need to find out what your horse needs. Leg boots can be a cheap form of insurance against avoidable injuries during riding, driving or when the horse is out in the paddock. If you practice jumping, it is a good idea to protect the tendons of the front legs against blows, as these are particularly exposed to a great deal of strain in jumping. Even if the boots may help and protect your horse, training is still important to make it strong and give it stamina. One way of strengthening your horse is to train on varying surfaces.

The most common materials used in leg boots are leather, synthetic leather and neoprene with plastic covering. Most will be fastened with Velcro.

Brushing boots

Brushing boots protect the horse's legs when they brush against one another. They may be made from neoprene and will often be reinforced with a harder shell on the inside of the leg. The front-leg boots are somewhat lower than the hind-leg boots.

Tendon boots

Tendon boots are primarily used for jumping, but may also be used during regular arena exercises.

The main purpose of the tendon boots is to protect the flexor tendons of the front legs against blows. These boots are fully open in front and the fastenings are often slightly elastic. It is important that the horse does not wear these boots for too long as the elastic fastenings may affect the blood circulation in front of the tibia. Tendon boots are normally lined with shock-absorbing neoprene. There are also boots that are lined with wool, which are extra soft and prevent chafing. The back of the boots, down over the fetlock usually have a hard plastic casing, but there are also Kevlar versions.

Fetlock boots

Fetlock boots, for the hind legs, are shorter and only protect the fetlock. There is also something called jumping boots, which are slightly higher and intended to make the horse “open up” its hind legs more during jumping. When you compete, it is important to carefully read the competition rules in advance to find out what regulations apply to the use of leg boots.

Splint boots

Splint boots are mainly used in dressage and regular arena exercise to protect against blows.  The splint boots are high and soft, and cover the whole lower leg, sometimes including all of the fetlock. The material is most often neoprene with Velcro fastenings.

Overreach (bell) boots

Overreach boots are used to protect the horse from injuring itself by overreaching. They can be used for all forms of riding, driving and transportation. The overreach boots can be made in rubber, synthetic leather or neoprene. Rubber boots may lead to chafing in some horses. One way to prevent this is to put regular baby powder on the inside of the boots before putting them on.

Leg bandages

Leg bandages also provide protection. If the horse is wearing fully elastic bandages, you must put padding underneath, otherwise there is a great risk of bandaging too tightly, which can damage the tendons. There are also combination bandages, or exercise bandages, where the first half of the bandage is fleece (the part that ends up closest to the horse's leg) and the other half is elastic. When you use this type of bandage, no padding is needed.

Bandaging a horse's legs is an art form in itself, which requires a lot of practice. The leg should look completely smooth when the bandage is on, and it should reach all the way down over the fetlock.

Stable bandages

Stable bandages should not be used during training, but only when the horse is standing in a stable. They are often made from fleece, and are used in combination with padding. There are also ready-made stable wraps, which consist of thick padding with Velcro fastenings.

Stable bandages can be put on after hard work, or for horses that tend to swell up in the legs overnight.

If a horse has injured a leg, and needs bandaging for that reason, you should always bandage the other leg as well. This is done to support the healthy leg, which is otherwise easily overstrained as the horse tries to keep off the injured leg.

1: Start with a clean and dry leg.

2: Put on a bandage pad if you wish. If you don’t want a bandage pad (short and long is available) then go to steps 4.

3: Overlap the pad and make sure it fits snugly against the leg without pulling too hard. Make sure that the hair on the legs is pointing down so that it does not lie unevenly.

4: Make sure that the pad is rolled correctly. You may need to make a test wrap first so that the Velcro ends up on the outside of the leg when you finish. Start wrapping in the middle of the leg.

5: Start wrapping about 2 turns so that it attaches. Be careful not to overtighten. If you need to pull a little closer, do it on the front of the leg so that you do not damage important tendons on the back. Be sure to apply even pressure throughout the winding.

6: Go down towards the vertebra. Wrap as evenly as you can.

7: When you get down to the vertebra, make sure that you wrap around it with a nice even connection so that it is protected against possible. strokes when riding. Then turn up.

8: Wrap evenly and nicely.

9: Make sure that the end of the winding with the velcro bracket takes place on the outside of the leg. Think of it as leg protection, close on the outside and back.

10: Done! If finish with the Velcro on the inside, you will have to rewind. Get to know your horse's legs and where you need to start in order to finish in the “right” place. The same person should wrap all four legs so that they get the same pressure and feeling.

How to: bandage legs

1: Start with a clean and dry leg.
\\n
\\n2: Put on a bandage pad if you wish. If you don’t want a bandage pad (short and long is available) then go to steps 4.
\\n
\\n3: Overlap the pad and make sure it fits snugly against the leg without pulling too hard. Make sure that the hair on the legs is pointing down so that it does not lie unevenly.
\\n
\\n4: Make sure that the pad is rolled correctly. You may need to make a test wrap first so that the Velcro ends up on the outside of the leg when you finish. Start wrapping in the middle of the leg.
\\n
\\n5: Start wrapping about 2 turns so that it attaches. Be careful not to overtighten. If you need to pull a little closer, do it on the front of the leg so that you do not damage important tendons on the back. Be sure to apply even pressure throughout the winding.
\\n
\\n6: Go down towards the vertebra. Wrap as evenly as you can.
\\n
\\n7: When you get down to the vertebra, make sure that you wrap around it with a nice even connection so that it is protected against possible. strokes when riding. Then turn up.
\\n
\\n8: Wrap evenly and nicely.
\\n
\\n9: Make sure that the end of the winding with the velcro bracket takes place on the outside of the leg. Think of it as leg protection, close on the outside and back.
\\n
\\n10: Done! If finish with the Velcro on the inside, you will have to rewind. Get to know your horse's legs and where you need to start in order to finish in the “right” place. The same person should wrap all four legs so that they get the same pressure and feeling.

Insurance

If you are going to start horse-riding or already ride, it is important that you check your insurance coverage.

When riding at a riding school or privately, it is not necessarily the case that you will be insured via your riding club. Check that any accident insurance you have also covers you when horse-riding. Not all insurance policies do.

Some people think that they can save money by not insuring their horse, but this can be an expensive mistake. The insurance company and the type of insurance you choose will depend on a number of factors. If you find it difficult to choose, ask other people what insurance they have and then contact the different insurers to get information and advice.

The most common types of horse insurance are life insurance and veterinary care insurance

\\n
• Life insurance can compensate you if the horse is injured so badly that it dies or if it becomes so ill that the vet believes it needs to be put down.
\\n
• Veterinary care insurance can compensate you if the vet has to examine and treat your horse.
\\n

Veterinary care is generally quite expensive, particularly if you do not have insurance, because you, as the owner of the animal, have to cover the entire cost, as opposed to human healthcare which is subsidised by taxation.

There are also a number of supplementary insurance policies, e.g. foetus and foal insurance, interruption insurance (for businesses), etc. Some policies also cover personal injuries resulting from accidents caused by the horse.

Agility is a fantastic sport that can be practised at all levels, from fun and recreation to full precision in championship events. You set the level yourself, and having a variety of obstacles at home is a good start. The obstacles should be firmly positioned and the tunnel should be fixed to the ground.
\\nIt's best to start out with an instructor so you learn all the important basics, both with regard to acquiring skills and preventing accidents. Always consult an expert before starting the exercises. Happy training!
\\n
\\n
\\nSandra Glanzén is an agility instructor at Hundspektra in Borås. She trains and enters agility competitions with her dogs Zorro, a Mittelspitz, and Röja, a Sheltie. Check out Sandra's tips to give you and your dog the best possible start to agility.
\\n
\\n• Find a reward that your dog will \\\"do anything for\\\", such as a treat or a toy. Keep the training simple to make sure you're always successful and always have fun.
\\n
\\n• Start by teaching your dog to run straight ahead (between two hurdle supports) towards a bowl containing a treat or a favourite toy. Start two metres in front of the hurdle supports and send your dog straight towards the reward, which should be placed two metres behind the supports.
\\n
\\n• Gradually increase the distance that your dog is required to run straight ahead. Then place a jump pole at the bottom of the supports. Once your dog is used to the pole, raise it one step. Over time, you can gradually add obstacles one at a time.
\\nThe reward should always be positioned after the last obstacle so your dog is constantly projected forwards.
\\nIMPORTANT: Always use low jump heights.

Choosing the right fencing

When choosing fencing, it is a good idea to consider everything carefully. What type of fence do you want, should it be more or less maintenance-free, is there an electrical connection close to the paddock?

Electric fences are available as wire, tape or rope. For paddocks, use two or three wires/tapes/ropes in the fence at a height of about 60, 90 and 120 cm. These fences are practical and simple to erect using plastic and/or impregnated wooden posts.

Plastic fences are usually almost maintenance-free. When choosing plastic, it is important to think about choosing UV-stabilised plastic if you want a fence that looks nice.

The quality of the plastic varies a lot between manufacturers and models; make sure that the plastic is of a high quality and resistant to the cold so that it does not crack. There is also plastic fencing with metal thread incorporated into it that can be electrified.

Wooden fencing usually requires maintenance, but there are types of wood that reduce the need for maintenance.Painted or impregnated fencing has to be retreated every few years. It is a good idea to supplement a wooden fence with electrical wire placed on the inside in order to prevent the horse chewing on the wood.

Sheep fencing is unsuitable for horses as there is a very high risk of injury. Since 1 January 2010, it has been illegal to use barbed wire as fencing for horses.

The fencing method will depend on the type of fencing you have chosen. Regardless of the type of fence, it is important to that all the products you choose, whether the wire, posts, insulators or power supply unit, are of a good quality. Good quality products last longer and increase safety.

If the paddock is to be permanent, you should use pressure impregnated posts or sturdy posts made of a better plastic. The posts should be at least 150 cm high. The distance between the posts depends a bit on what you are fencing with. When using wire and the like, the posts should be four to six metres apart, whereas the length of the poles determines the distance if you are using plastic or wooden poles. It is preferable for corner posts to be both longer and a little stronger as the corners are subject to a high load. Consequently, it may even be appropriate to place struts against these posts to make them more stable.

If the paddock will be used by more than one horse, it is a good idea not to make the corners too sharp to prevent one of the horses getting boxed in by the others and becoming injured as a result.

If you have wire/tape/rope and wooden posts, you also need to have insulators as you cannot wind this around or attach it directly to the posts. If you need to join them somewhere, you need to use special joining plates or join locks as it is easy for the filaments in the thread not to make a proper contact with each other if they are simply tied together, which can also damage them and prevent the current from being conducted through the fence as it should.

When you make a gate, there are a few different types to choose from; everything from a simple gate handle attached to the wire, for example, to ready-prepared elastic gate systems. It is important to know that if you choose what is known as a spring gate, which has a handle attached to a substantial spiral spring, it is easy for the horse's tail to get stuck in the spring, resulting in a dangerous situation.

If you have chosen an electric fence, it is advantageous to have a nearby electrical connection to connect the power supply to. If this is not possible, there are also power supply units that are battery powered, as well as batteries that can be charged by solar cells.

Good to know:

\\n
• Choose wire/tape/rope that conducts the current well. The resistance/conductivity is given in ohms. The resistance has to be as low as possible; the lower the number of ohms, the better the conductivity. As a guideline:0.10 ohms/m = very good conductivity
  \\n4.0 ohms/m = acceptable
  \\n15 ohms/m = poor
  \\n
\\n
• If you need a really strong power supply unit, choose one with a high Joule value, as the number of Joules indicates the amount of energy the unit can be charged with.
\\n
• If you have impregnated posts, you should use those that are labelled with NTR-A as these cope better with the stresses both over and under the ground.
\\n
• Make sure to earth the power supply properly; the ground should be as damp as possible, i.e. don't place the earth spike close to well-drained foundations.
\\n
• Check that the wire is carefully tensioned and that grass or tree branches are not caught in the electrical thread. It's good to use a fence tester to ensure that the current in the fence is as it should be.
\\n
• If your paddock is adjacent to a public road or a footpath, there have to be warning signs to indicate that it is an electric fence.
\\n
• Your power supply unit should be protected if it's not waterproof; you can simply build a small box in which to hang the unit.
\\n
• A special lightning protector can be mounted close to the power supply to protect it from lightning strikes.
\\n
• Horses perceive contrasting colours better and single colours, which is good to know if the electrical thread is thin and difficult to see.
\\n

Useful measurements:

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• The posts should be at least 150 cm long in order to be properly fixed into the ground. The corner posts should be both longer and stronger in order to cope with the stress they are put under.
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• The distance between the posts when using wire or similar should be 4–6 metres. Wide electrical tape is affected by the wind and should be used with shorter distances between the posts.
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• The wire is normally placed at a height of 60, 90 and 120 cm. If you only have large horses, the two higher measurements are all that are required.
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• Think about having a \\\"corridor\\\" between paddocks or use what are known as Y posts to stop horses from different paddocks coming into contact.
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• If the paddock is used for grazing, if possible provide c. 1 ha per horse.
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A safe stable environment

The stable environment has to be as safe as possible for both you and the horse; tidiness is one of the most important factors.

Stables tend to become dusty and the dust can actually cause fires so be careful to keep lamps, electrical connections, heaters and other electrical equipment clean and free of dust and dirt. Clothes, rugs and other equipment should not cover any heaters. The electrical equipment that there is in the stable also has to be approved for use in stables, something that you perhaps don't think about when it comes to radios, for example. Battery-powered radios, however, are not a problem.

Keep the floor free of food waste so as not to attract rats and mice as these can then start chewing on the electricity cables. If there is an accident and a fire breaks out, a knife, a halter, a halter strap and a fire extinguisher should be easily accessible. It is a good idea to place these tools on a special fire poster to stop these tools being used on other occasions and ensure they are available when needed. Something that is important to think about is that there should be as easy as possible to get out in the event of an evacuation. The stable walkway should be free of kit, wheelbarrows and other things that can cause injuries or obstruct an evacuation.

Although fire is probably the worst nightmare scenario, there are a many other things that can cause serious injuries.

Boxes and stalls (to the extent they still exist) that remain have to be designed so that there nothing the horse can get stuck on. Common traps are grates that have openings that are too large, allowing the horse to get its hoof or jaw stuck. The gap between the box door and the stable floor should not be more than 3.5 cm. If the box door has an open upper part, a rug hanger should not be placed on this door. It is easy for the horse to get its lower jaw stuck if it starts to bite into the rug/hanger, resulting in serious injury.

Lamps and electrical cables have to be protected so that they don't come within the horse's reach when it is standing in its box/stall.

Handles, box locks, taps etc. have to be adapted or equipped with the appropriate protection so that the horse cannot get stuck to or damage itself on them.

Store food where the horse cannot get to it in a space with a consistent temperature and humidity that is not too high.

Forks, spades, brooms and wheelbarrows have to be kept in a designated place so that they do not block the walkway and cause injury.

It may be a good idea to have doors that can be fixed open with a hasp or similar to reduce the risk of the horse getting stuck or becoming afraid of a door that slams shut.

In terms of caring for the horse, it is good if there is the opportunity to put the horse in a specific place as this makes handling it easier and safer.

A riding teacher's advice for entering your first competitions

After taking lessons at the riding school for a while, students often get curious about taking the next step: entering competitions. That's great! But for a novice, it can be difficult for both students and parents to know what's expected of them. We asked Jenny Lindh, a riding teacher, to give some tips and advice for beginners.

Right from the very start, all the lessons at the riding school follow a plan to develop students' skills, give them a good foundation and gradually prepare them to enter competitions – if the student wants. - It's important to remember that there's no obligation to take part in competitions. Not everybody wants to. We look at each student's individual needs and preferences and then make a decision with the student and their parents. Some students feel anxious about competing, in which case it's important to start at the right level, says Jenny. - Even a student who has walked the horse over a five centimetre pole has jumped. We should never underestimate the power of thought, and always try to make things fun, she says, smiling. - Once they've tried it, most students enjoy competing and feel they improve every time. All riding is useful, and the more hours spent in the saddle the better.

Start with club competitions

Most Swedish riding clubs hold competitions for members. Jenny's riding school in Vimmerby in Sweden holds about one competition a month, mainly in jumping but also in dressage. These events provide an introduction to competitive riding. All students at the school can take part without meeting any specific criteria. - They're all free to join in, provided they're accompanied by a parent. The youngest kids walk or sometimes trot over poles on the ground, says Jenny. - And no-one has to jump at any specific height. Even if you jumped 60 centimetres in your lesson, in the competition you can choose 40 or whatever you want. Jenny's riding school is currently trying out a course for children and parents called 'the art of competing' which covers all aspects of riding competitions, from what a course plan looks like to how to bring a horse in from the paddock. Many other riding schools offer the same or equivalent courses. - When parents do the course with their children, it creates a sense of security for the parents, the students and us.

Small kids aren't embarrassed

Jenny says there are benefits of competing from an early age. - Young kids don't have the mental blocks that can develop with age. For instance, they're not embarrassed when people watch them. They just find it fun. Older children have the advantage of being more mature and physically stronger, but other factors can cause problems instead. It's important to talk to the students if any mental blocks arise, such as feeling embarrassed, and we recommend talking about it at home too.

Jenny's advice for beginners

For parents whose children want to compete:

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• Find out what is required of parents during competitions and decide whether it will work for you. It could involve anything from giving your child moral support to driving a horse trailer.
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• Take your child to watch a few competitions.
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• Speak to your riding school about your child's needs. Is he or she ready? Are there things you need to practise more first? Should your child take extra lessons?
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• If a competition doesn't go as well as your child hoped, you might want to give him or her a little space. A few well-meaning words don't help much if someone is very upset. Having some time out to calm down can do the trick.
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For students who want to start competing:

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• Don't focus on how well you perform. Expect to make a few mistakes in your first, second and third competition. Even things your usually find easy can seem difficult when you're nervous. See your first few competitions as practice.
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• Set realistic goals. Choose a lower jump height to get a feel for it.
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• There's a difference between riding your own pony or the riding school's pony in a competition. With a borrowed pony, you'll have less opportunity to practise together. You might need to practise a little extra to become a good team.
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• Eat properly. This might not be easy when you're nervous, but just try to eat whatever you can. Eat and drink properly during the whole day of the competition.
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Meet Jenny Lindh

Jenny, 34, is a qualified hippologist. For ten years, she has been a riding teacher at Ryttargården riding school in Vimmerby, Sweden. She started riding at age five and got her first pony at age eleven. She has always loved animals. As a teenager she attended a high school course in hippology and rural studies. But horses remained her greatest passion. She worked at a racing stable while still at school, and later gained an additional qualification in training racehorses. After an injury prevented her from racing, she found a new passion as a teacher at the riding school.

- Watching my students develop from tiny tots to teenagers, both as riders and as people, is what motivates me. It's a wonderful thing to take part in, she says.

Competition equipment for the horse

Having a newly washed, braided or newly groomed horse with a shiny coat that enhances the results of grooming makes a great contribution to a feeling that you are ready to compete. There is a lot of equipment to choose from, but don't forget to check the competition rules for horse, rider and equipment.

Saddle blankets are available in a wide range of colours and styles giving you plenty to pick and choose from. In show-jumping you can even match the saddle cloth with an attractive hood in the same colour as these are allowed in show-jumping competitions. When it comes to dressage, a fly hood may be permitted with special dispensation from the head judge or chair of judges.

The brow band can improve the impression the horse gives and its appearance. For those who want to be a little discreet, there are brow bands that are completely made of leather, it's possible for the leather to be varnished for increased sheen. There are brow bands that have various attractive metal links and, for those who love bling, brow bands with glittering Swarovski crystals; they are available in a multitude of different colours. Brow bands with beads are now increasingly common. The brow band options are endless, change as it takes your fancy to get a completely \\\"new bridle\\\".

Leg boots vary depending on the discipline you are competing in. For show-jumping, tendon boots and fetlock boots are used predominantly. There are a number of important regulations to keep in mind, particularly if you are riding a young horse. When competing in dressage, the horse should not have any boots on its legs when inside the arena, but it is a good idea to use leg boots or bandage the legs when warming up. Check the competition rules to see what applies.

The horse must always wear its competition number when you are riding or leading it in the competition area. There are various models of competition number that are complemented with the digits 1–9 in three positions so that you can easily display the number your horse has been assigned. If you have a separate bridle when you are out and leading the horse, it is a good idea to have two sets of competition numbers, one that you can put on the bridle you use when you are out and leading the horse and one that you can have on, for example, the bridle or saddle cloth that you use when competing – this means there is no chance of you forgetting to change.

Auxiliary reins may not be used in dressage competitions, either in the arena or when warming up. Martingales may be used in show-jumping, both in the arena and when warming up. This applies to both ponies and horses. The use of other auxiliary reins during the warm up is approved for horses, but not for ponies.

Quarter sheets may be used when warming up for all disciplines.

It is a good idea to place a rug made of a material that can wick moisture on the horse to prevent it cooling down too much before and after it has competed.

Important!

It is really important that you are aware of the competition rules for the discipline that you will be competing in; changes and amendments can be made so you need to keep up to date.

Competition equipment for the rider

The equipment you need for competing varies depending on the level, discipline and whether you are riding a pony or a horse. To be on the safe side, check carefully the competition rules before competing.

Your competition clothes can consist of:

Riding jacket, with one or two slits. Many jackets are made of functional materials that make them flexible and comfortable.

Riding breeches, white riding breeches are usually associated with competition, but it is fine to have other colours.

Competition shirt, competition top or stock. There are many fine competition tops in attractive colours and styles, what they all have in common is a white collar. Most are also made of functional materials making them feel fresh and comfortable to wear. Some are also treated with Polygiene to prevent bad smells.

The helmet may, if you wish, be the same one you normally use. One way to keep a velvet helmet fresh and smart is to impregnate it, which stops it attracting dust and dirt as easily. Storing the helmet in a helmet bag will help to keep it fresh and smart. If you have long hair, you might want to put it up or use a hairnet.

Boots or riding shoes with short chaps that do not have fringes are used most frequently. To get leather boots or shoes extra shiny, work in shoe polish with a cotton pad, allow to dry, polish with a clean cotton pad and then rub with a nylon stocking for an bit more of a finish.

Gloves should be worn in dressage competition, as well as when doing other forms or riding, partly to protect the hands, but also to provide a better grip on the reins.

Spurs must be worn in dressage competitions, but can also be used when needed when show-jumping, for example. The length of the spurs you may use and how they are to be worn can be found in the competition rules.

Whips may be used in all warm ups, but you may not take a whip into the arena in dressage competitions. The length of whip you are allowed depends on whether you are riding a pony or a horse and whether you are involved in show-jumping or dressage. Check what applies in the competition rules.

Body protectors are always permitted and must be used by children and young people up to the age of 18 when show-jumping.

There are some exceptions to the above that apply to persons with disabilities, e.g. there are no stipulation that spurs and whip may be used in dressage competitions; further information will be provided in the competition rules.

Well-groomed for competition

Regardless of whether you are going to compete at club level or in a big national competition, you want your horse to be looking its best. Here are some suggestions for what you can do.

Give yourself plenty of time before the competition and begin by washing and grooming your horse. There are various products you can use, e.g. shampoo that is a little bit more effective such as white horse shampoo, which is excellent at removing stains from white/light coats and shampoo that enhances/adds depth to the colour of the coat. Don't forget to wash the shampoo out thoroughly so that no residue remains.

Depending on the weather, it can be a good idea to allow the horse to dry under a rug, e.g. fleece, acrylic or wool, which draws moisture away. Remember to change the rug if it becomes too damp. It is a good idea to walk the horse dry if it is cold. If your horse has a thin tail, you can braid the tail while it is still damp. When it dries, brush it through properly and it will look thicker thanks to the waves. The tail's length is a matter of personal taste; in general, jumping horses have a slightly shorter tail than dressage horses, but it is up to you.

If you do not have access to water and a shower, or if there is not enough time, spray shampoo is available. You spray this onto stains you want to remove and then rub with a rag and brush out. Read the instructions on each product.

The mane is usually braided if you are going to compete in dressage. The mane can be left unbraided for show-jumping.

If you want to groom the hair in the horse's ears, do this by pinching together the ear and cutting away the hairs that stick out. You should not cut inside the horse's ear as this hair provides good protection against insects, for example. Nor should you cut the horse's sensory hairs around its muzzle and eyes.

If possible, scrub the hooves clean and paint them with hoof oil or hoof grease and have the horse stand in the stable until its hooves have dried.

For an additional finishing touch, rub face fix or baby oil into the horse's muzzle/nostrils and around its eyes to give the horse a more expressive appearance.

Finish off by spraying or brushing coat sheen onto the horse. If your horse has white marks on its legs, be a bit more thorough on these as coat sheen also makes it more difficult for dirt to stick. Remember not to use coat sheen where you want to place tack as it reduces friction.

Advice on braiding the mane:

Shorten the mane and maybe thin it out a little; a reasonable length is usually about 10–12 cm. Divide the mane into equal bunches; you can use normal hair-grips to keep them apart. You can use gel on straggly manes to get more firmness. Try to make the braids as tight as possible so they keep together better. Fold in each of the braids once or twice and secure them with a rubber band or sew them in place using a darning needle and strong thread (special mane thread is available).